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THE 



il0n?40rial |t»'t pam|iltltt, 



CONTAINING THE 



Origin of the Trade, 



THE BUSlflESS IN AMERICA AND OTHER COUNTRIES. 
ITS RISE AND PROGRESS. 



IXDTA.y. 1 rOL/S, LVD. 



PRICE, TWENTY-FIVE CENTS. 



^ndiiinaj^alii : 




PRESS OF THE PUBLISHING HOUSE. 
1877. 



THE 



TONSORIAL ART 



PAMPHLET. 



ORIGIN OF THE TRADE, 



THE BUSINESS IN AMERICA AND OTHER COUNTRIES. 
ITS RISE AND PROGRESS. 



mTj. vieiea, 

Indianapolis, Ind. 



PRICE. 25 CENTS. 



,o j^- 



o 



^ INDIANAPOLIS: 

PUBLISHING HOUSE PRINT. 



rS77- (• "^ ^■-■■}- i^^ M ^1 



Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1877, by M. J. Vieira, in the office of 
the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 



y^ 



^y 






FIB ST EDITION, 

ipi-vE Tsioxjsj^nsriD ooipies. 

I>'DIA>APOLIS PUBLISHIXCt} HOUSE. 

TILFORD & CARLON, Proprietors. 






d::5 



INTRODUCTORY 



In publishing a work of this character I am aware that there are verjr 
many difficulties to encounter, and its success in every respect would, or 
will depend largely on the aid and sympathy I have, and shall re- 
ceive from the fraternity at large. This support, I am happy to say, I 
have fully realized so far as I have gone. I am satisfied now ^lat the 
''Toiisoiial Af-t Fa7nphlct" will meet the approbation, not only of the fra- 
ternity, but of the general public. 

First of all, the barber will find the Pamphlcl a mine of information, 
and, if he profit by the effort of the author to entertain and instruct, he 
will soon discover that he stands on a higher strata of the social globe 
than he at any time before conceived. None are so wise Ijut that they 
may learn, and the barber is no exception — the author includes himself. 
I am confident that after having digested the Pamphlet you vt^ill prize 
it above all former instructors. 

Second, Hair dressers will soon discover that the Tonsorial Art Pam- 
phlet contains much information for them, and will enable them to 
lighten their burdens, and at the same time the better please their cus- 
tomers. In fact men of every branch of business will learn, from perusing 
its pages, much that will tend to beautify and make life enjoyable under 
all circumstances. 

The commercial traveler will take kindly to the Pa7)iphlet, because he 
will find much jotted down upon its pages that will interest him, and in 
which he himself is deeply interested. He would as soon forget his 
"bag" of samples as his book. In his book he can learn what barbers 
on his route understand the art to perfection. No class of men patronize 
the barber and hair dresser more, unless it be actors, than the commer- 



4 INTRODUCTORY. 

cial traveler, and they are aiiotlier class who appreciate the luxury of a 
good shave and sniootii, neat cut. 

The railroad men will find the Tonsorial Art Pa/iip/ilel \<iry y/vdwtOtAe. 
As an entertainment it will prove a success; as a mine from whose depths 
■can be drawn much valuable ore the Painplilcl \\\\\ be held invaluable. 
Railroad men make their toilet "on the rail," going at a speed of ihirty- 
tive miles per hour, and by the aid of this little book much unnecessary 
trouble can be avoided, and a more satisfactory result can be reached than 
could be obtained without its assistance. I am confident that this very 
numerous class of our public men will hail llie advent of this little work 
with unfeigned pleasure. 

Mothers will hold the 7'onsorial Ar/ J'amphlel as an indispensable 
friend. In it they will find invaluable information that will teach them 
to avoid many evils connected with the toilet of themselves and children. 
Thousands of evils cling to the toilet, which in later years lead to tlie 
<lisfiguration of what was once a beautiful face, and mothers should guaid 
against such silent and seemingly inoffensive evils. 

I have gathered the gems from everj- city, clime and country — 
truths that, if heeded and treasured up, will be of invaluable worth to 
the readers of this little work. The East, South, North and West have 
■contributed to our storehouse of diamonds, and I give them to the 
world compact and in their originality. 

The knowledge gained through extensive travel, close observance of 
man and his peculiarities, and a life-long practice in the business of bar- 
bering and hair manufacturing, enables me to ofi'er to the public and the 
fraternity in particular, much useful information, which I have en- 
deavored to present to my readers in the most concise manner possible. 
In compiling this work, it has been my aim to make it at once entertain- 
ing and instructive, for which purpose I have taken great pains and 
spared no expense to gather all the information relative to the origin and 
growth of this branch of industry. 

This being the first connected history of the " Tonsorial .-Vrt " ever 
published, its advent, I feel confident, will be hailed with delight by the 
members of the fraternity, and its pages not he wanting in interest to 

the general i^ul)lic. 

THE AUTHOR. 



TONSORIAL 



PART FIRST. 



There are thousands of intelligent people in this and 
other countries who come in contact once in a while with 
the word Tonsorial, and do not comprehend its meaning. 
As it is a Latin word it is not very common, therefore sel- 
dom used unless in connection with the trade it represents 
or signifies. The word Tonsorial is from the Latin word 
Tonsura. Its meaning or signification is cutting, clipping, 
trimming with shears, or cut with a razor. In the French 
language it is called Tonsure. In Spanish and Portuguese 
it is Tonsura, as in Latin. 

THE CUSTOM OF SHAVING THE BEARD. 

The beard has always been considered as a mark of wis- 
dom, and among the Oriental nations especially has been 
highly prized. The Persian Cadi would hardly venture to 
sit on the judgment throne with a shorn face. "By the 
beard of the Prophet," is to-day one of the strongest invo- 
cations that Mussulmans ever use. And though the prac- 
tice of shaving Avas not carried out to the full extent that 
it is to-day, the barber flourished at the most remote ages ; 
though compelled by the fashion to leave the face un- 
touched, he found ample occupation for his skill and tal- 
ents in dressing and cutting hair. A passage in the Scrip- 
ture occurs in Ezekiel v, i, "And thou son of man, take 



6 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

thee a barber's razor and cause it to pass upon thine head 
and upon th)' beard." It is a rather curious passage, as it 
is an absolute act of deprivation, but its signification may 
be consistent nevertheless. 

By whose decrees our sinful souls to save; 

No Sunday tankards foam, no harher shave. — Byron. 

The occupation of barber is an institution of civilized 
life, and is only known among the nations that have made 
a certain progress in civilization. 

The custom of shaving the beard was introduced into 
•Greece from the East. Plutarch says that it originated, 
doubtless, on account of the warriors in battle not wishing 
to be pulled by the beard as it grew to unreasonable 
length. Doubtless some had very tender skin and could 
not bear any considerable amount of pulling. This was 
no doubt the niain cause of the introduction of the art. 

The Jews, by their Scriptural law, were enjoined not to 
shave. The Romans shaved, and so did their immedi- 
ate successors, the Romanized Britons. The Saxons and 
Danes did not shave, and wore long hair. The Normans 
shaved, but th^y too adopted long hair as a fashion, and 
from them, and the more modern French, the courtiers 
and cavaliers of the 17th century adopted the practice of 
wearing those flowing, loving-locks which excited the ire 
of the Puritan. 

In the Roman Catholic Church the first ceremony for 
devoting a person to the service of God and the church, 
the first degree of the clericate given by a Bishop, con- 
sists of cutting or shaving the hair from a circular space 
on the crown of the head, with prayer and benediction ; 
hence the entrance and admission into the holy order. It 
is the corona or crown which the priests wear as a mark of 
their order and rank in the church. This custom, how- 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. J 

ever, is adopted only in Europe from the ancient custom 
of the East. 

There is nothing said of barbers at Rome till about the 
year A. D. 454; but there, as elsewhere, when once intro- 
duced they became men of great notoriety and their shops 
were the resort of all the loungers and newsmongers in 
the city; hence they are alluded to by Horace as the most 
accurately informed in all the minute history both of fami- 
lies and State. Peter de Borse, a French barber, sur- 
rendered the razor and shears to fill the responsible posi- 
tion of Prime Minister to Philip the Bold of France; step- 
ping as it were from the gutter into the shadow of the 
throne; proving to the king a valuable counselor, for un- 
der his direction the Ship of State was guided safely through 
a dangerous political sea. 

In early times the operations of the barber were not con- 
fined, as now, to shaving and hair cutting, hair dressing 
and wig making, but included the dressing of wounds, 
blood letting and other surgical operations. It seemed 
that in all the European countries the art of surgery and 
the art of shaving went hand in hand. The title of barber- 
surgeon was generally applied to barbers. The barbers of 
London were first incorporated by Edward IV, in 1461, 
and at that time were the only persons who practiced sur- 
gery. The barbers and the surgeons were separated and 
made two distinct corporations in France in the time of 
Louis XIV, and in P^ngland in 1745. The sign of the 
barber-surgeon consisted of a striped frame on which was 
suspended a basin; the fillet around' the pole indicating 
the bandage twisted around the arm previous to blood let- 
ting, and the basin the vessel for receiving the blood. 
This sign has been generally retained by the modern bar- 
ber. In this country, however, the basin is used only for 
cupping purposes. Another signification of the barber pole 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 



or sign is thus given : ' ' The red represents the blood ; the 
blue represents the veins; the white represents the skin." 

The art of barbering in FAirope to-day is not to be com 
pared with the art in this country. I presume that no gen- 
erous Yankee artist, one with the tact for business and en- 
ergy of a Phalon, a Delight or a Roberson, ever crossed 
over there when he could make himself known by his taste- 
ful and high toned "Salon Tonsoriel " a la mode Ameri- 
caine, I have no reason to doubt that the French or Eng- 
lish gentleman would not appreciate a good shave as much 
as an American gentleman, provided the shops were in- 
viting and the work done in an artistic manner. 

It is rather singular but nevertheless true that nearly 
every business in the country, be it large or small, is from 
time to time given an account of in the newspapers, and the 
people, as a general thing, become posted in all branches 
of business throughout the land, except in the business that 
I am to represent at this time. Whether it is because it 
is too barberons a matter to talk about, or too insignifi- 
cant to think of. I am not prepared to say ; but so it is 
that we hardly hear anything about the business, except 
some heartless tonsorial artist commits some depredation^ 
or some one-horse boss-barber starts a Barbers' Union, then 
a notice of the fact may be seen in some newspaper in the 
shortest possible form ; so that when anything like an ac- 
count of the business appears in any of the journals of the 
country it is read with interest by the fraternity, and at the 
same time it is received with a feeling of astonishment. 
Such was my case when a friend of mine offered me the 
Chicago Sunday Tribune, of the loth of December, with an 
article headed "The Barber." Though the writer gave a 
good and correct account of the origin of the business, he 
was not posted, however, in its details as far as this country 
is concerned ; but I hope that he may at some future time 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 



favor us with more on the same subject. Finding the ice 
broken and the channel open, I thought proper to take ad- 
vantage of the opportunity and give a more expHcit account 
of the business, hoping to present some facts to those who 
are not posted in our business, that they may not hereafter 
sneer so much at the insignificant business and good-for- 
nothing trade. 

The barber business has kept pace with all other trades 
of the country. It has raised from a three-penny concern 
to high-toned and palatial salons. The time was when a 
man could get shaved in this country for three cents. At 
that time he was satisfied in having his rough beard with 
a week's growth on, scraped off in a couple of swipes, and 
wash his own face half the time ; the operation being per- 
formed with a Wade & Butcher largest size scythe, as it is 
considered now-a-days. Such was the manner of shaving 
in this country in the old, old times. 

With few exceptions, barber ing was in those days, in 
this country, as it is now in Europe. There the basin and 
a piece of common soap is used for the softening of the 
beard, while here a cup and brush have always been used 
for that purpose. The barber chair used at that time in 
this country was of a very plain structure, straight back 
with a head piece resembling the upper part of a common 
crutch ; the chair was covered with common carpet, and 
the rest of the furniture corresponded. The size of the 
shops was generally ten by twelve feet. Six towels were 
considered sufficient for the whole week's trade ; each towel 
was used on ten or twelve customers. Once in a w^iile 
some indiscreet individual would find fault with a towel 
that had been used only on about six or seven other cus- 
tomers, to which the artist would reply that the towel had 
been used only on the stated number, and none of them 
had found any fault with it. This being a great consola- 



10 Toiisorial Art Pamphlet. 

tion to the fault-finding customer, his head was again rested 
on the crutch — I would say on the head rest — and his phys- 
iognomy was wiped in a very unceremonious manner, after 
which he paid his three cents and departed in peace. 

Young men did not go into barber shops then ; they 
would not be seen in one unless they had become of age ; 
their modesty and bashfulness would not permit them to 
expose themselves to the public gaze in having the fur re- 
moved from their apparently tender and smooth counte- 
nances. 

At that time white barbers were not very numerous. 
The gentleman of color was the sole controller of the trade 
tmtil 1820, or thereabouts, when a few German barbers 
began to make their appearance in some of the large cities. 
Twenty dollars at that time would open a pretty good shop, 
while at present the best shop in the country cost twenty 
thousand dollars. About the year 1835, or thereabouts, 
the barber business began to assume a different aspect; 
the white barbers became more numerous and the shops 
were better fitted up. 

Ten years later, Mr. Edward Phalon, of New York city; 
opened a barber shop which cost about twenty thousand 
dollars. This grand opening was heralded all over the 
country, and many people thought at the time that Mr. P. 
was foolish or crazy in spending so much money in a bar- 
ber shop; they called it extravagance, etc. In connection 
with his tonsorial business he began to manufacture hair 
oils, perfumery, etc., and he became quite wealthy. Mr. 
Phalon is a self-made man. At the age of seventeen he 
entered into a contract with a man by the name of 
Jacob Mayby, an American barber, to learn the trade. 
He served his time of four years, and immediately 
opened a shop in Chatham street. He sold this shop 
shortly after, and opened another a little larger; but being 



Tonsorial Art Pmnphlet. ii 

a man of energy he felt that he ought to have a larger es- 
tablishment still — not only larger but fitted up in an ele- 
gant style — and he succeeded in opening the grand estab- 
lishment referred to above. Mr, Phalon's father was a 
trader from New York to New Orleans; he was an inti- 
mate friend of Henry Clay. He died in New Orleans of 
yellow fever in 1815, one year after his son Edward was 
born. Mr. Phalon is one of the oldest barbers in the 
country, being now at the age of sixty-three years. In 
the summer of 1848 Mr. Phalon sent a bottle of his hair 
invigorator to his father's esteemed friend, the Hon. Henry 
Clay. Mr. Clay, with the high appreciation of the friend- 
ship handed down to the younger Phalon, by his old asso- 
ciate, acknowledged the receipt of the same by letter, as 
follows : 

Ashland, June 2, 1848. 

Mr. Edivard Phalon : 

Dear Sir : — I duly received your friendly letter, and request you to 
accept my cordial thanks and grateful acknowledgements for the friendly 
sentiments toward me which you do me the honor to entertain. Derived, 
as they have been, from your lamented father, and strengthened and con- 
firmed by your own observation and reflection, they come to me with 
strong and double title to my high appreciation of their value. I also 
thank you for the bottle of your invigorator which you had the goodness 
to send me. I will give it a fair trial. Although in advanced age noth- 
ing can avert the appearance of gray hair and wrinkles and other evi- 
dences of lapse of years, it is well enough to put on and preserve our 
good looks as well and as long as we can. From the favorable account 
of your Invigorator, I think it must contribute to the object of your suc- 
cess and prosperity in life. That such may be its tendency, and that you 
may long live in health and happiness, is the fervent wish of 

Your friend and obedient servant, H. Clay. 

This letter has been kept by Mr. Phalon as a great and 
highly appreciated relic, and may be seen hung up in his 
shop in a very neat frame. 

In 1862 Mr. Phalon lost over one hundred thousand dol- 
lars in the South from his extracts, perfumeries, oils and 



12 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

hair invigorators. He was at that time one of the largest 
manufacturers of the above articles in this country. Mr. 
Phalon was the first man in the United States who in- 
creased the journeyman's wages, which were from five and 
six, to nine dollars per week. The fraternity may thank 
Mr. Phalon to-day for the manner in which he brought the 
barber business from a three-penny concern to a large and 
extensive business. He is the father of the profession in 
this country to-day ; a man of honor, respected and be- 
loved by all who know him personally. 

From 1845 li'iir cutting and hair dressing began in earn- 
est. At that time the hair was worn long and combed 
straight back and very often rolled under. The Irish gen- 
tleman especially considered it quite a treat if he could get 
into a barber shop on the Sabbath morning and get his 
hair dressed in the latest style preparatory to going to 
church. This style, however, changed, and the half- 
shingled style began. Young men commenced to fre- 
quent the barber shops as much as the senior class. They 
would get their hair curled with the curling-tongs to go to- 
balls, theaters and private parties. Young ladies began to 
wear the hair short and very frequently curled with the 
tongs. 

Previous to i860 the general price of shaving was five 
cents, hair cutting ten cents and curling fifteen and twenty 
cents ; but at the commencement of the war the price was 
raised to six cents a shave, twelve cents for hair cutting, 
twenty-five cents for curling and twenty-five cents for 
shampooing. These prices were general, but there were 
some of the best shops that charged ten cents, and the 
rest of the work in proportion. At the time when Uncle 
Sam became short of small change and concluded to use 
postage stamps as a portion of currency, I was an appren- 
tice, and was very particular when I shaved a customer to 



Toiisorial Art Pamphlet. ij 

take all the pains I could, so that he might be satisfied 
with my work and call again, or in other words I had "an 
eye for business." After I would finish him, he often 
would pull out a pocket book full of postage stamps and 
give two of them looking as if they had already been 
through the office once or twice. I often thought what a 
great blessing it was that I never was addicted to swearing ; 
but I knew several other fellows who often offered some 
short but well-directed prayer for the benefit of such 
cheeky and impudent beings. 

In 1862-3 the price of shaving was raised to ten cents, 
and some of the best shops in New York and other large 
cities began to charge fifteen cents, the present price in 
that class of shops. In 1865-6 all the first class shops in 
the country charged fifteen cents and a few twenty cents, 
and fort}' cents for hair cutting. These prices clearly 
demonstrate the fact that the barber business like all other 
trades has kept up with the growth and progress of the 
country. 

New York City, or the great metropolis, has always 
been the principal city in the East for the tonsorial art, as 
it is for everything else. Many number one artists has she 
sent forth to seek their fortunes in this broad and glorious 
land. Many have succeeded in accumulating enough to 
make them comfortable through their remaining days, and 
many have more than they can possibly use while in the 
enjoyment of this life. There are no less than one thou- 
sand men in the barber business in this country that are 
worth from fifty to one hundred thousand dollars. There 
are a few in New York and Philadelphia who are worth 
upwards of half a million. In the latter beautiful city the 
tonsorial business has been carried on very extensively. 
There are some splendid establishments in the city, but 
bathing in Philadelphia, as far as barber shops are con- 



/^ Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

cerned, is a failure, for the simple fact that nearly every 
household has a bath-room, thus cutting off considerable 
custom that would otherwise patronize the barber shops. 

In the city of Boston the business is carried on in quite 
an extensive manner. There are many establishments of 
the first class and are well patronized. In nearly every 
first class shop in the city of Boston they charge twenty 
cents for shaving and forty cents for hair cutting and the 
same for shampooing. 

In Baltimore, or the city of fashion, there are also many- 
first class establishments, and the barber business flourishes 
in that city. There are many old artists in Baltimore who 
have accumulated considerable wealth at business, some 
of them commencing with a single chair, but they kept 
steadily on, adding little by little until they found therrr- 
sclves comfortably fixed, taking it easy and enjoying life- 
in a manner to be appreciated. 

There are some good shops in Washington City, but, 
like the harvest time, business comes in earnest only when' 
Congress assembles, and when it does, barber shops get 
their full share. 

There are some good shops in Rochester, Buffalo, Cleve- 
land, and a few in Pittsburgh, only that you can't tell what 
color they are. 

Then we come to Chicago, and there is where you will 
find them. Chicago has got more number one barber shops- 
than any city in the world for its size. Of all the cities in 
this country Chicago is undoubtedly the pride of them all. 
As far as business is concerned it is only excelled by the 
great metropolis, while for pleasure and sociability it is not 
to be questioned. To realize this fact, one has to live there 
but a short period and he will readily come to the conclu- 
sion that Chicago, to use the common expression of the 
commercial traveler, "is the boss town of them all.'" 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. ij 

There is probably no class of men in this country more 
able to judge what a town or city is than this very class. 
The traveling man becomes acquainted not only with the 
people he comes in contact with, but also with their ways 
and manner of doing business. He watches closely as he 
travels on, and takes pleasure in obtaining all the informa- 
tion about everything that is interesting to him. The trav- 
eling men, as a class, are not selfish or penurious ; on the 
contrary, they are free and open-hearted, liberal and amia- 
ble, while intellect is generally visible in their countenances. 
There are a few exceptions in this class, however. There 
are some who are inclined to be ugly and ill-disposed, 
making themselves disagreeable in many places. I have 
seen some of them — I should have said few — show their 
temper and ill manner at the table in hotels, cursing the 
waiters, victuals and nearly everything about them. If 
there is one thing more than another that I detest in this- 
world, it is to hear a man at a table finding fault with nearly 
everything that is set before him. It is the height of ill- 
breeding. But I must say that there were only a few of these 
men in the fraternity. Good manners and pleasant counte- 
nances will meet with the highest respect of even the most 
ignorant ; while sociability and politeness are always highly 
appreciated by the most learned and cultivated mind. 

There is no place probably which the traveling man 
more delights to visit as soon as he arrives in a city or town 
than a good barber shop ; it is one of the first and seems 
to be the most essential thing with him. He gets a good 
shave and he feels refreshed, and looks as though he was 
ready to meet the hardest customer that he ever dealt with, 
with full confidence of coming out first best, happy and 
contented. They are the happiest and most social set of 
men that ever took a trunk out ; always ready for a joke, 
give or take. They are the happiest set of Adam's race. 



l6 l^onsorial Art PainpJilet. 

I take pleasure in assuming the responsibility of charac- 
terizing another class of men who patronize the barber shop 
nearly as much as the above. If there is a set of men in 
this broad land, or any other, that should command the 
highest respect and appreciation of the general public it is 
the railroad men ; but 1 am sorry to say that their services 
arc not as much appreciated as they should be. No man 
runs such risk of his life as the railroad man ; no man has 
more contention than the railroad man; none are more brave 
in staring death itself in the face than the railroad man ; and 
yet they are called a hard set ; they are abused shamefully 
very often ; but by whom ? by people who pretend to be 
so nice and pure, while if the truth were known about them 
it would make the horny creature blush. The railroad 
man, as a general thing, is out-spoken, open-hearted and 
free to express his views. Some say that they swear and 
use vulgar phrases. While it may be true that some of 
them use indecent language sometimes, circumstances are 
such very often that a minister in their places would find 
it very difficult to refrain from the same. "Put yourself 
in his place." By the by, 1 would have you to read a 
work of the above title by Charles Reade ; it will no doubt 
give you the true position or situation of this class of men. 
Our best and most thorough railroad men commenced as 
peanut sellers on the trains, or green hands at the brakes ; 
but there, as anywhere else, their character may be molded. 
Little these young boys may think or perceive that their 
respective employers observe from day to day their ways 
and manners while on duty on the trains. A newsboy on 
a train can be a gentleman or he can be a loafer. I leave 
it for them to select one of these traits; not only the news- 
boy but the brakeman also. Both these are often imposed 
upon by a certain class of travelers ; but we are all liable 
to maltreatment and imposition, consequently we should 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. ly 

put our reasoning powers at work with that force necessary 
to overcome the many difficulties that cross our pathway. 

Patience, the great virtue of human kind, 

Undoubtedly is the greatest comforter that a man can find. 

Tiie position of a conductor aboard a train is one of great 
responsibility. Our conductors, as a general thing, are men 
of good sense, respectability and good manners, and withal 
civil and polite. They also have contentions, from the fact 
that they mingle with human nature in all its forms and 
ways. The accommodation of these men to the public is 
very often perceptible and commands admiration. In this 
connection I take pleasure in mentioning a i&w conductors 
who are highly esteemed by all who have had the pleasure 
of riding on their trains. One of these men is William 
Cummings, often called Billy Cummings by his most inti- 
mate friends. Mr. Cummings runs the accommodation 
train from Mendota, Illinois, to the city of Chicago, on the 
Burlington and Quincy Road. Mr. C. is undoubtedly one 
of the most pleasant and accommodating conductors in the 
country. His manner of treating his traveling patrons 
never fails to be appreciated by them, so much so that 
they will often wait one train over so that they may ride 
on his train. Mr. Cummings has been employed by the 
same company for over twenty years. Another one of 
these men runs from Indianapolis to the city of Hamilton, 
Ohio. His name is Charles Pender. Mr. Pender has been 
employed by that company for over ten years as conductor. 
He is a pleasant, amiable and very accommodating man. 
As in the case of Mr. Cummings, those who know Mr. 
Pender much prefer to ride on his train, and will wait for 
him often. There are many such men throughout the 
country, and when the railroad companies have such 



i8 Tonsoriai Art Pamphlet. 

men in their employ it is for their interest to retain them 
as long as they can. 

THE MASTER OF THE IRON HORSE. 

The engineer of a locomotive has no less responsibility 
•on his shoulders, but I would say that he had more, and 
not only responsibility, but occupies the most dangerous 
position. Though there are many accidents on railroads, 
it is a wonder there are not more. Sobriety is required 
among this class especially, and the companies can not be 
too strict in this respect. I am glad to say that we find 
comparatively very few of these men who drink to excess ; 
but my opinion is that no man who pulls the throttle 
should ever touch or handle intoxicating liquors. 

Railroad men, like the traveling men, are appreciative 
of a good shave, and they patronize the barber shops as 
much as the latter class, for they seldom ever shave them- 
selves. How many times they sit in a barber chair, tired 
out and sometimes nearly exhausted, and in a few mo 
ments they find themselves in the embrace of old Mor- 
pheus, and there remain until they are awakened by the 
clatter of the chair, or the well known sound of "Next!" 

Chicago is the great center for the commercial traveler. 
I have yet failed to meet a traveling man that has ever 
been in Chicago who felt disposed to find fault or run that 
city down. Chicago is all attractive within its limits. It 
concentrates your affections right there, as it were, and 
sets you thinking and wondering how it is possible that 
such a city can control such an immense trade, under the 
great pressure of indebtedness that is constantly upon it. 
This is a mystery to many who arrive there ; but it is not 
long before they lose their sense of wonder, and plunge 
headlong with all the rest of humanity, if they possess en- 
ergy, and become a part and parcel of the great and won- 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. ig 

derful city. Never fail to see Chicago if it is in your 
power so to do. 

I went to Chicago in 1865. It was just after the great 
struggle, and the barber business, as well as all other bus- 
iness, was quite brisk. Money seemed to be plenty, and 
everything moved on smoothly, presenting a bright pros- 
pect. There were several first-class barber shops in the city 
at that time, and all doing a good business. Although a 
great many journeymen barbers were then coming from 
the East, a first-class workman could always obtain work 
and command good wages. Among the first-class shops 
in the city at that time was one on the corner of Lake and 
Clark streets, kept by Antonio M. Delight. There were 
nine chairs in the shop, and they were all going in full 
blast. There were also nine bathing rooms connected. I 
worked for Mr. D. several weeks. Business became so 
brisk that the room was not spacious enough to accommo- 
date the custom the establishment attracted ; and Mr. De- 
light feeling that he necessarily must have more spacious 
quarters, with the assistance of a prominent merchant, Mr. 
A. D. Titsworth, he procured the magnificent and spacious 
room in Smith & Nixon's building, then just finished, on 
Washington street, next to the Board of Trade, and opened 
a palatial establishment, which then assumed the name of 
" Delight's Tonsorial Palace." The room was about twenty- 
five feet front by sixty deep. Mr. Delight fitted up the 
shop in magnificent style. The furniture was the best 
that could be found in the city or in the country. The 
floor was of marble, while in the center of the room a beau- 
tiful wash-stand of unusual dimensions ornamented the spa- 
cious apartment. There were sixteen elegant Rochester 
chairs, eight on each side of the room. Sixteen artists, 
the best that could be procured, were employed. Proba- 
bly never was nor ever will be again such a set of first-class 



20 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

workmen in one establishment in this country. In con- 
nection with the establishment there were sixteen bathing- 
rooms in the basement, fitted up in most elegant taste. 
There was also a ladies' hair-dressing room and a wig 
room, both in charge of Mr. A. C. Barrows, the celebrated 
wig maker. The number of persons employed in the es- 
tablishment was about thirty. The weekly expenses were 
nearly a thousand dollars. The rent of the room alone 
was four thousand dollars per year. 

On the grand opening day and evening it resembled 
more Field & Leiter or some other large establishment on 
their opening day, for its grand display on the occasion. 
The whole city was interested, and it seemed as if the en- 
tire populace was there to take a look at the Delight-ful 
Palace. 

Although the expenses, as stated before, were enormous 
for an establishment of that kind, Mr. Delight made plenty 
of money as long as he attended to the business in a pro- 
per manner. The amount of Delight's Spanish Lustral 
sold at wholesale and retail, the oils, bay-rum, perfum- 
eries, and fancy articles pertaining to the trade, nearly 
paid the expenses of the establishment. 

The wages that Mr. Delight paid at that time were the 
highest ever paid in this country, except in San Francisco,. 
California, where they paid twenty-five dollars per week in 
gold. Mr. D. paid twenty-two dollars per week to most 
of the workmen then employed ; and though the wages 
were high, they were well-earned, for the men had to work 
hard early and late. 

Among the most prominent artists employed in the es- 
tablishment were, Mr. Gus. Klinke, foreman, afterwards 
proprietor of the Tremont shop ; Mr. William Fisher, 
often called Bill Fisher by his friends; Mr. Chas. K. 
Tyler, Mr. Samuel Place, Mr. William Pettilon, Mr. 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 21 

Henry Pettilon, Mr. E. N. Cass, Mr. E. Finney, Mr. 
Joseph Ward, Mr. Moses O'Neal, Capt. Ed. Went, and 
others whose names I can not bring to memory. 

If ever there was a man in our business in this countr}- 
whom fame and fortune were staring in the face, it was 
Tony Dehght ; but the Prince of Barbers could not bear 
prosperity very long. He became reckless by fast living, 
fast society, etc., and soon bid farewell to the wonderful 
and rare chance of becoming the wealthiest man in our 
business in this country. The title that Mr, Delight as- 
sumed was not because he was the best artist in the busi- 
ness, but because he was the best manager and the most 
enterprising man in the profession ; and the fraternity may 
thank Mr, Delight to-day for the manner in which he 
brought the business up to the present standard. Not 
only did he establish high wages in the West, but he also 
was the means of several magnificent shops being started 
in different parts of the country, 

A short time after Mr. Delight gave up his Tonsorial 
Palace, Messrs. Pettilon Brothers, at present proprietors 
of the Grand Pacific shop, opened an elegant shop in the 
basement of the Tribune Building. The establishment 
was one that did great credit to the city. It cost upward 
of twelve thousand dollars. The proprietors being men of 
ability and tact for business, as well as steady and indus- 
trious, they succeeded, as a natural consequence, in build- 
ing up a reputation unsurpassed by any other firm in the 
•country. By the time, however, that they were flourish- 
ing — reaping a good harvest — the great catastrophe swept 
them away, as it did many others, and left them to start 
again with only their reputation to commence with. Here 
is where men never lose anything when their reputation is 
beyond reproach. When through their earnest labor and 
honest dealings they accumulate wealth as their just re- 



22 To7tsorial Art Pamphlet. 

ward, and though it may be swept away from them by 
some unaccountable or unexpected means, they can most 
always fall back on the reputation they have already built, 
and continue in their usual pursuit. 

To realize what I have stated regarding the manner in 
which business is pushed in the great pride of the West,, 
is to look at it to day — blooming like a beautiful flower in 
the middle of May. She is not only the pride of the West 
but of the country. May she ever grow in wealth. May 
God with his ever-watching eye guard and screen her from 
another such destructive fate. 

WHAT I SAW AND LEARNED ON MY TRIP. 

In order that I might be successful in this enterprise, I 
thought proper and really necessary that I should obtain 
all the information I could about the art in attempting to 
give its history, and at the same time obtain a few adver- 
tisements from some of the principal firms throughout the 
country. My time, however, was rather limited, and I 
could not reach all the principal cities that I intended, but 
succeeded in obtaining considerable information in all the 
cities I visited, and all the encouragement that would point 
to success. However, there is no man at the present time 
who will attempt to introduce any new enterprise, it mat- 
ters not how good or excellent it may be, but he will meet 
with some rebuffs by somebody. 

One of the first cities I visited was Cincinnati. There I 
met with good encouragement ; but I went to a certain 
newspaper office to ascertain about some advertising. I 
gave my circular to a gentleman and a business man, as I 
thought, and asked him what it would cost for a certain 
advertisement in his paper. He commenced to read the 
circular, and laughing under a disguise he had to go and 
show it to another man, and they both chuckled in their 



Tonsofial Art Pamphlet. 2j 

sleeves. A thought undoubtedly came to the wise man's 
mind that such an insignificant enterprise would be hardly 
worth noticing. There are many men in certain positions 
to-day that are not worthy of it ; apparently they may 
seem to fill the position, but some of them lack a great 
deal of judgment and common sense. Men who will not 
measure small things will many times slight larger ones. 
It is the little things that require our most attention. How 
careful is a mother with her babe ! He is only a little in- 
significant thing ; ah ! but who knows what that child will 
become if he lives to be a man ! Business men, take good 
care of the little things, for the large ones will take care 
of themselves. 

The next city I visited was Chicago. I met with all en- 
couragement to assure me success, and never will forget 
the cordiality with which I was greeted by the Associationi 
of the Barbers' Union in that city. That honorable body 
saw fit to pass a resolution approving of my enterprise, 
and manifesting a desire of doing all that was in their 
power to make it a success. 

The next city was St. Louis. There, as in the former 
city, I met with a cordial approval ; and having heard of 
Prof. Roberson's establishment, I went to see it, and after 
I had seen it I felt that I was well paid already for my 
trip. It is worth any person's time to go through the es- 
tablishment. 

The next cities were Cleveland, Buffalo and Rochester^ 
where they have some good establishments, especially in 
the latter. 

Next was New York city. One of the first firms I 
visited was that of Phalon & Son, or the father of the 
business in this country. I found Mr. Phalon a very 
pleasant and intelligent gentleman, well informed and 
highly educated, I received a great deal of information 



24 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 



from Mr. P.. and never shall fort^et his kindness towards 
me. I was in the great metropolis about a week, looking 
around at the styles and everything of interest. I hap- 
pened to be in the city on the great 5th, and had occasion 
to go to the Tribune office on business. I transacted my 
business, and asked permission to go through the building 
and take a view of it. I had ascended three flights of 
stairs, when looking towards the south I saw a flag half- 
mast on one of the buildings close by. I went all through 
the beautiful building, and it is a grand sight to go as far 
up as you can. for when you get there you can't find a 
higher place in the whole city, and there behold the sight. 
When I descended and reached the sidewalk I went to- 
wards the south and saw that same flag again, it was on 
the top of the Sun Building. I approached the building 
and saw a man reading the bulletin, and he was smiling. 
I asked him in a very serious manner if the editor of the 
Sun was dead ; he in a similar serious manner responded 
that he did not think he was dead, but he thought that he 
ought to be. As he said this he laughed, and I smiled 
very liberally, and went on my way. The Swi is hidden 
beyond the clouds. 

While in that localit)' I visited the office of the Novo 
Mundo, or The Nezv World, a Portuguese paper, published 
by Dr. Rodrigues of Rio de Janeiro, an eminent scholar 
and a gentleman of fine culture, as I am told. The paper 
is illustrated, and is very interesting to those who can ex- 
tricate the knowledge from its pages. It was the first lite- 
rature in my native tongue that I had looked at for four 
years or more, and it was very interesting to me ; but I 
had not the pleasure of seeing its editor, as he was absent 
from the city. 

I walked down Chatham street to Chatham Square. I 
looked around, and, noticing so many streets emptying 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 25 

there, for curiosity sake I counted them, and to my great 
astonishment I had eleven marked in my Pocket Com- 
panion, The names of the streets are as follows : Chat- 
ham, Bowery, Oliver, East Ikoadway, Division, Worth, 
Mott, Catherine, Doyers, New Bowery and James. I dare 
say that there are but few persons in that great city who 
will realize this astonishing fact; and there is probably no 
other one place in the world where so many streets come 
together. 

Walking down the Bowery and taking a few notes of 
things of interest, I passed an eating place. It was a 
small room, but neatly fitted up. It had a good sized 
window which was full of the nicest looking pies I ever 
came across. I was always inclined that way from a boy ; 
it has been one of my greatest failings, and I fear that I 
never will get over it; but then it will not do at this late 
day to find too much fault with mother nature. I got hun- 
gry looking at the pies, and I bounced into the room, and 
before I sat down I called for a cup of coffee and a piece of 
pie. Such a cup of coffee I had not drank for many a day, 
and the pie was simply supurb, and when I asked for my 
bill and found it was but ten cents I was greatly surprised. 
I paid the bill and bounced out of the room, for I felt 
another hungry fit coming on and would not permit any 
conflict with my dinner. I believe the place is in the 
neighborhood of 194 or 196 Bowery, and the man's name 
that keeps it is Culler or Cullins (but not Tom Collins). 
If you should ever happen to pass that place and look in 
the window and don't get hungry looking at those pies, 
I'll pay for one dozen of them if you'll eat them at one 
sitting. 

I walked toward Broadway and went into a barber shop 
not very far from the United States Hotel, and presented 
my circular to one of the artists. He commenced to read 



26 Tonsonal Art Pamphlet. 

it, and in a few moments gave it back to me, sayir.g that 
he did not want anything of the kind, that it was outside 
of their Hne. I looked at him for a moment, for he was 
an intelligent looking fellow, and felt like laughing right 
out, but I controlled myself until I reached the sidewalk, 
when I enjoyed a good laugh all to myself, and pulling out 
my Pocket Companion I inserted the good but rather ab- 
surd joke or incident therein. 

The great city is full of attractions, I visited the cele- 
brated Mora's Art Gallery and enjoyed myself for half an 
hour in viewing the products of the great art. It pays one 
to visit that establishment. Never fail to visit the Central 
Park, the great museum especially. 

Walking on the Fifth Avenue, my attention was at- 
tracted by that old established house of C, G. Gunther's 
Sons, the great fur dealers, established in 1820, It is a 
magnificent building seven stories high. The fine display 
of goods in the establishment pays one to go from the ex- 
treme end of the city to see. 

Crossing over to Brooklyn, I viewed for the first time that 
great undertaking, the New York and Brooklyn Bridge. 
One can not form an idea of this great work until he sees 
it. It was my desire to ascend to the foot bridge where 
the workmen were engaged, but I was not able to see the 
Hon, Henry C, Murphy, President of the Board of Trus- 
tees, from whom I would necessarily have to obtain per- 
mission. 

FROM NEW YORK TO BOSTON, 

I started to Boston on the Albany Road, and if there 
ever was a smooth road, put that at the head. The day 
was pleasant and the train was full of gentlemen and ladies. 
They were all Yankees of the finest type ; pleasant manners, 
intelligent faces, sociable and highly educated. It does 
one good to take a trip from the great metropolis to the 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 2^ 

celebrated Hub. You feel as though you were on an ele- 
vated plane. What will replace intelligence, pleasant man- 
ners, courtesy and refinement? Education and good train- 
ing produce all this and more. When we arrived at New 
Haven, the President of Yale College and other Professors 
of the institution boarded the train. That was a well con- 
ducted train, I assure you. Arriving at Hartford, the first 
attraction is a magnificent building at your right which you 
are bound to look at for some time and admire for its pe- 
culiar architecture. Though not colossal in dimensions it 
is a large and handsome structure. The building is not 
near finished yet. Hartford is a handsome city and has 
some handsome buildings that would do credit to any city. 

A RIDE TO GLASTONBURY. 

Having some business to transact at the above town^ 
and there being no railroad thereto, I gladly accepted the 
accommodation of a stage that runs there daily. A man 
by the name of Chapman runs the said accommodating 
train, and, by the way, he is a good and accommodating 
Chap. He had been running that machine for ten years, 
he said, but I doubt if he ever had any such load as on 
that trip. It was an open wagon, with accommodations 
for three seats, but there were two barrels on board that 
ought not to have been, that took up one seat. There 
were five ladies and five men and one little boy ; yes, and 
one more male — the mail bag — and a little brown jug that 
was put away under the seat. Undoubtedly some of the 
passengers (of the male persuasion) frequently thought 
they would like to form the acquaintance of Mr. Jug, but 
as it was impossible to get a glimpse of it, all they could 
do was to wish it well. Going through the city, every 
man, woman and child who saw the wagon stopped, as if 
we were some of Barnum's wonders. No doubt it was a 



.28 Tonsonal Art Pamphlet. 

comical and wonderful sight. Once the wagon jumped, 
and I looked to see where I should jump, but I didn't 
fancy the place, as the mud was a little too deep. The 
•caravan righted itself, however, and I felt of myself to see 
if I was all there yet. When these pleasant — oh, yes, very 
pleasant ! — up-turns of the wagon would come, it made us 
feel rather serious. Not a word would be uttered, but 
when the sea was calm they would create laughter and a 
joke ; but I was not very much inclined to laugh — all the 
time I had to spare was occupied in bracing myself, in case 
some unexpected jolt would bounce me into the mud. Of 
all the rides, I never will forget that one ; but we all 
reached our destination in good order, and very thankful 
for it. 

I reached the old Hub next day. It was clear and 
pleasant ; the Yankee city looked natural to me, and I felt 
at home, but my stay was rather short, and I could not 
take a good view of it. Boston has some magnificent 
buildings, and some improvements have been made on 
some of the streets. Walking around and looking at the 
sights one noon, or rather at half-past one, I passed the 
celebrated restaurant of Copeland. I did not feel like 
going any further, for I had had no dinner yet. I took 
chicken pie for mine. Braced once more to my heart's 
content, I strolled further and went towards the Common, 
but it is not Boston Common until the middle of May or 
thereabouts. I crossed to Washington street, and took a 
peep into White's dry goods store. It pays well for one 
to go through that grand and magnificent establishment. 
I went to the wharves, for I always love to see ships, and 
always feel like blessing the one that brought me over. 

My time was up and I had to leave, much to my regret. 
On my way back to New York I stopped at Worcester, 
and was rather surprised to notice the wonderful improve- 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 2^ 

ments in that city since 1871. Worcester is one of the 
nicest cities of its size in the East. 

Two days in New York, and then off to Philadelphia. 
I have to give the same verdict that nearly every one does 
who goes there. I like Philadelphia for its nice streets- 
and for its nice white shutters, for its beautiful women and 
for its wonderful and rare relics. My first desire was to 
see that old structure that every American highly prizes — 
Independence Hall. I was in the building an hour or more 
looking with interest at the great relics that are within its 
walls. One of the first attractions was the old bell, and 
wishing to see the date on it, I was permitted to go inside 
the place where it was. I tried to sound it, but the sound 
is dull and not very pleasant. The bell was made in Eng- 
land about November ist, 175 1 ; arrived the latter part of 
August, 1752, and was hung in the summer of 1753. In- 
dependence Building was commenced in 1732 and occupied 
in 1736; Andrew Hamilton, architect. Never fail to see 
Independence Building if you ever go to the Independence 
city. 

I stopped but two days in the city and then started for 
the Smoky City. Arriving at Pittsburg the snow was on 
the ground, and as I was making for the hotel as fast as I 
was able, without any warning I found myself sprawling; 
on the sidewalk. My hat went one way, my sachel an- 
other ; I occupied another place still. There were many 
people passing, but I did not notice them just at that time 
for my mind was very much occupied. I arose slowly, for 
one of my knees felt a little delicate. I gathered up the 
things that had so suddenly slipped from my grasp, and 
composing myself made another bounce for the hotel, and 
succeeded in arriving there without any further interrup- 
tion. Oh yes ! I love Pittsburg! I had a colored shirt 
on, that was one great blessing, anyhow. Pittsburg is a 



JO Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

thriving city, and many fortunes have been made there in 
our business. I got through my business in one day and 
started for the Pride of the West. Arriving there next 
morning I felt that I had reached home. I always felt at 
home in Chicago, since I lived there. I had been in the 
city a month or so previous, and was kindly received by 
the fraternity, and very much encouraged by the interest 
they took in my enterprise ; and I feel that as far as the 
city of Chicago is concerned, the Pamphlet will be liberally 
read, by the fraternity at least. I could not help noticing 
th€ difference between Chicago buildings and those of 
Eastern cities ; especially in hotels Chicago stands ahead. 
I staid only one day and then started homeward bound, 
reaching the Hoosier Capital safe and sound. 

In nearly every shop I entered and gave my circular it 
was read with interest and approved, and often they would 
say it was a good idea — that it would elevate the business 
in the opinion of the public, etc. While I believe this my- 
self, I would add one word : This little work will be read 
by the fraternity to a considerable extent, and will no 
doubt meet the approbation of many ; if so, why not keep 
a few more good books in your shops that will be instruct- 
ive and beneficial to the mind. I love to read good books, 
and nearly always had them when I kept shop. In the 
•first place I would have a Bible on a center-table in every 
shop in the country, and a few other good books that are 
worth more than their weight in gold, and not have such 
trash as dime novels and other insignificant literature that 
intoxicates the mind and fits it for naught. Cultivate your 
mind with good reading, and you will profit by it greatly ; 
if you do this you will not only elevate yourself to a higher 
standard, but you set a good example to those who may 
patronize your establishment. Thus you will make your 
place of business attractiv^e, and will draw to you that class 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. ji 

who are educated and refined. This is the best way I 
know to elevate the business to a higher standard. How 
many bright intellects are blasted by the constant reading 
of that which is no avail to them ! Is it not much prefer- 
able to feed on that which is substantial and rich ? The 
world is corrupt enough at best ; why not strive to amel- 
iorate our condition whenever and wherever we can ? But 
you say, How can I study or educate myself? I have no 
means to do it. It is a poor excuse, and you had better 
not offer it. 

If you have the will, 
You may fill your till. 

The barber shop has been a good school for me, and 
really the only one I ever had in this country. I have 
had bad luck in many ways : I have failed in business ; I 
have been snubbed and cut very short sometimes by edi- 
tors, because I didn't happen to have the right handle to 
my name ; I have been discouraged many times, but I 
never felt disposed to give up the few good books which I 
possessed that held me up and consoled me often in time 
of dismay. Give me good books and you may have ev- 
erything else. 



PRINCIPAL ESTABLISHMENTS IN THE 
COUNTRY. 



NEW YORK CITY. 

One of the finest and most popular establishments in the 
city of New York is that of Edward Phalon & Son, in the 
St. Nicholas Hotel. It is often called the Glass Tonsorial 
Palace, for it is covered with mirrors all around. There 
are ten chairs in the establishment, and as many bathing- 
rooms in the basement, fitted up in an elegant style. In 
front of the shop there is also a gents' furnishing goods es- 
tablishment, carried on by the firm. The shop is hand- 
somely fitted up, the furniture being the best the market 
affords. Price of shaving, twenty cents ; hair-cutting, thir- 
ty-five cents. Such establishments as this generally and 
naturally attract that class of custom that appreciates good 
work, and take delight in sitting in the chair as long as 
they conveniently can, and have the artist take considera- 
ble pains with them. For the extra time, however, they 
liberally recompense, giving often fifty cents — twenty for 
the shave and the remainder for the workman. This, 
however, does not recompense the firm for the extra time 
wasted on the customer, in consequence of which Mr. Pha- 
lon has adopted a rule that works harmoniously both ways. 
All the extra change that is received from the customer 
for work goes to the drawer, accompanied with a check 
corresponding to the amount, and a liberal percentage is 
given to the workman when the cash is made up. This is 



Tonsovial Art Pamphlet. jj 

decidedly the best and the most just way of arriving at the 
difficulty. Mr. P. is no doubt the first man who adopted 
this rule. He talks of selling out his establishment and 
retiring from the business. It is time that Mr. Phalon 
should retire ; energy and anxiety have both subsided. 
He has achieved much which the fraternity must be proud 
of to-day. May the last days of his life be peaceful and 
serene, is the fervent wish of the author. 

Fifth Avetiue Hotel Shop. — This establishment is carried 
on by Mr. C. Schrieber. It has twelve chairs, and is fitted 
up in fine style. Mr. S. has been in that establishment 
seventeen years, and is supposed to be worth upwards of 
one hundred thousand dollars. 

Astor House Barber Shop. — This establishment is carried 
on by Mr. C. Cristadoro ; it has ten chairs, and is one of the 
best paying firms in the city. It is fitted up very neatly. 
Mr. C. has been in business for many years ; he com- 
menced to manufacture his celebrated hair-dye a number 
of years ago, and has succeeded in accumulating a snug 
little fortune of two hundred thousand dollars and upward. 

There are a number of other first-class establishments in 
the city that might be mentioned, but could not be in- 
formed of the names of the proprietors. 

IN THE CITY OF BOSTON. 

Parker House Barber Shop. — The proprietor of this es- 
tablishment is P. Notly, a German, a man of good educa- 
tion and business capacity; has eight chairs, two stands in 
the center of the room, having four mirrors on each. Mr. 
N. is well off. He has been in the establishment for over 
fifteen years. 

Tremont House Barber Shop. — Peter Rober, proprietor. 
This shop has ten chairs, and is handsomely fitted up, 
3 



j^ Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

Mr. R. imports perfumery, and within a few years has 
been in Europe for the purpose of purchasing the above 
line of goods. He has been in the estabHshment for over 
twelve years, and is well off. 

Revere House Shop has five chairs, and is one of the best 
paying establishments in the city. I could not ascertain 
the proprietor's name. 

United States Hotel. — This house has two shops, one 
with eight chairs and another with four, kept by an Italian 
whose name I was not able to ascertain. I was informed 
that he is worth half a million dollars. He has been in 
these establishments over twenty years. 

American House Shop, Charles Taylor, proprietor, runs 
four chairs. Mr. T. is well off, and has been in the estab- 
lishment for seventeen years. 

Charles Mason's Old Stand, corner of Hanover and Elm 
streets, up stairs, is carried on by Mr. Peter Paradise; has 
nine chairs, and is one of the best stands in the city. Mr. 
Mason was one of the most energetic men in the business 
in the city of Boston, but the habit of intemperance got the 
better of his nature and he became one of its victims. It 
is said that about four years ago he committed suicide by 
taking a dose of morphine or some other deadly poison, 
and ending his terrible and wild career. 

Charles Smith, Brattle Square. — This shop runs five chairs, 
and is a very good stand. Mr. S. keeps barbers' supplies 
on a small scale, but intends to go into that business alto- 
gether before long. 

Nooncns Establis J intent. — This firm is on Washington 
street opposite Harvard. It has eight chairs and deals in 
furnishing goods. A good stand for the business. 

William Tyler, corner Hanover and Portland streets, runs 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. j^ 

five chairs. Mr. T. has been fourteen years in that estab- 
Hshment and is supposed to be pretty well off. 

Bunker Hill District. — ^J. D. Dwyer, corner of Harvard 
and Bow streets, runs five chairs, has a very neat shop and 
is doing a good business. Mr. D. is a man of energy and 
has tact for business. 

Quincy House Shop is one of the oldest establishments in 
the city. It is carried on by the house and does a good 
business. 

Charles Newhall, opposite the American House. Mr. N. 
is one of Mr. Mason's apprentices, has been in business 
fifteen years and is well off. He runs five chairs and has 
a very neat shop. 

Charles Kemball, No. 2 Court Square, has five chairs. 
This is one of the oldest stands in the city, and its proprie- 
tor is comfortably fixed. 

George Sparol, Court Avenue, has seven chairs. This 
shop does a good business, the location being number one. 

There are many other establishments in the city worthy 
of mention, but not being able to obtain the names of the 
proprietors or number of chairs I can not mention them. 

There are some good shops in Lawrence, Mass., and 
Manchester, New Hampshire, my former home. The 
best shop there is that of Orrill Brothers, opposite the 
Postoffice. I was in business for three years in said shop 
in company with Mr. James Orrill, one of the present pro- 
prietors. The location is the best in the city. 

PHILADELPHIA. 

There are several nice establishments in the above city, 
but I was unable to obtain many names of the firms. 

ContDiental Hotel Shop has nine chairs and is fitted up in 



j6 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

a very tasty manner. Mr. Louis Witman is the proprie- 
tor, a very pleasant gentleman and well posted in the bus- 
iness. He has also six bathing-rooms. 

St. Cloud Hotel. — Jackel Brothers are the proprietors of 
this shop. They have six chairs and do a good business. 
I would judge the location a good one. 

ROCHESTER. 

One of the most pleasant shops that I found was in the 

above city, kept by VVm. Laird in Corinthian Hall. It is 

a large square room, with nine chairs, and a good-sized 

wash-stand in the center. On one side of the room there 

is a large stand for bay-rum bottles, holding about two 

hundred and fifty of them ; it was a new feature to me. 

Mr, L. is a fine workman from what I could judge of his 

manner of working. 

BUFFALO. 

One of the best establishments in the above city is on 

Seneca street, F. Grabenstatter, proprietor. It has six 

chairs and as many bathing-rooms, and is fitted up in a 

very tasty manner. 

ROME, N. Y. 

In the above city there is a good shop carried on by Mr. 
Geo. Batchelor. He has four or five chairs, and the shop 
is well fitted up. Mr. B. has been in business for thirty 
years. He also keeps a large assortment of ladies' orna- 
mental hair-work ; switches, curls and wigs made to order. 

PITTSBURG. 

There are some good shops in the above city, and a few 
that date back a century or more. The shop in St. Charles 
Hotel it is supposed has been in that locality for over a 
hundred years. A colored man by the name of Lewis 
Woodson kept the shop for forty-six years. He retired 



Tonsonal Art Paviphlet. j/ 



fourteen years ago, and entered the ministry. He is a 
Methodist minister, preaching the gospel to-day at the age 
of seventy-two years. 

J. B. Vashon, colored, more commonly called Col. Va- 
shon, was in the business fifty years, and was rich. He 
died in 1854. 

There is one German in the city who is worth no less 
than two hundred thousand dollars, who commenced with 
one chair, and never would have a glass before it. The 
shop was not very inviting, but the location was good, and 
he prospered by his strict attention to business. 

There are others who are worth from twenty-five thou- 
sand to one hundred thousand dollars, all made by means 
of the razor and shears. 

CLEVELAND. 

Keitnard House Shop, Chas. Kress, proprietor. The 
shop has six chairs and as many bathing-rooms, and is fit- 
ted up neatly and tastefully. Mr. K. has been in business 
for many years, and is pretty well off. 

CINCINNATL 

The Queen City has some fine shops, but not so many 
as she ought to have for her size. One of the principal es- 
tablishments is in the Grand Hotel, Mr. Wm. Reed, pro- 
prietor. The shop is well fitted up, having seven chairs. 
Mr. R. has also another shop in another part of the city 
with five chairs. Mr. Reed has been in the business since 
a boy, and is pretty well posted. He is a good scholar, 
and a man well liked and respected by all who know him 
personally. 

Burnet House Shop, W. B. Ross, colored, proprietor. 
This shop has six chairs and is well fitted up, and keeps a 
^ood assortment of toilet articles. 



j8 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

The Model Hair-Dressing Parlor. — This establishment, 
thouj^h not very large, does a first-rate business, the loca- 
tion being one of the best in the city. It is carried on by 
Messrs. Herrman & Middendorf, two enterprising young 
men and first-class workmen. They have built up a good 
reputation. They have five chairs, and the shop is fitted 

up very neatly. 

CHICAGO. 

One of the finest establishments in the country is that of 
Pettilon Brothers, in the Grand Pacific Hotel, costing up- 
wards of fifteen thousand dollars. It is often called the 
Rich Walnut Palace. It has nine Rochester chairs, made 
to order; they are wider than the regular size, and the 
head-rest is of a novel design, costing fifteen dollars apiece. 
The chairs cost seventy-five dollars apiece. The mirrors 
are nine feet long by three wide, incased in a heavy black 
walnut frame beautifully carved. There are two wash- 
stands on one side of the room, both with shampooing ap- 
paratus. In the center of the room there are two regis- 
ters. Near the front windows, or at the cashier's office, 
there is a beautiful show-case full of selected toilet articles. 
All the furniture in the shop is the best that could be had. 
The bathing department is undoubtedly the best fitted up 
in the country, so far as I saw wherever I went. The 
bathing rooms are ten in number. The floor of the rooms 
is covered with a rich and heavy Brussels carpet. In each 
room is a large black walnut stand with drawers, and a 
good-sized mirror on top. At the side of each bathing-tub- 
there is a set of blinds, that can be closed when the show- 
er-bath is applied, preventing the water from spattering on 
the floor. There is also a waiting-room, fitted up in an el- 
egant style. This department is well ventilated and free 
from any unpleasant smell whatever, and is no doubt the 
finest in the country. This is the water or the plain bath 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. jp 

department. Dr. Somers has charge, and is the proprie- 
tor of the Turkish, Electric and Vapor Baths also in the 
hotel. This department is separate from the above one, 
and is very complete and also one of the best in the 
country. 

Messrs. Pettilon Brothers have also another establish- 
ment on the north-east corner of Washington and Clark 
streets, with seven chairs and as many bathing-rooms. 
This location is one of the best in the city. 

T/ie Sherman House Shop. — This establishment has eight 
Rochester chairs and as many bathing-rooms. Mr. W. A. 
Hettich is proprietor. Mr. H. is German by birth ; is a 
good scholar in his own language, as well as in English ; 
a man of fine qualities, highly respected by the fraternity, 
as well as by those who know him personally. He has 
been in business in Chicago for a great many years, and in 
the same locality for twelve or fifteen years. Mr. Hettich 
was the President of the Barbers' Union for the last term, 
and filled that position with credit to himself as well as to 
the Association. Mr. H. is well-to-do, and has been so 
long established that he never fails to obtain the share of 
patronage that he undoubtedly deserves. His establish- 
ment is one of the finest in the city. 

Palmer House Shop. — This establishment has ten chairs, 
is fitted up elegantly, and is carried on by the house. 

Tremoni House Shop. — Mr. Wm. Eden is the proprietor 
of this establishment. There are nine chairs in the estab- 
lishment, and bathing rooms. This is one of the neatest 
shops in the city. Mr. E. is a man that takes pride in his 
business; he is naturally tasty and of good judgment; his 
long experience in business has made him a reputation in 
the way of fitting up a business place, thereby attracting 
that class of custom that appreciate a luxurious shave and 



j/0 Tonsorial AH Pamphlet. 

eveiything else in connection. Mr. Eden is a well edu- 
cated man, of fine appearance and very polite in his man- 
ner. 

A. M. Delight. — This establishment may be found at 
152 Madison street. Mr. D. has nine Rochester chairs 
and other furniture to correspond. It is an inviting estab- 
lishment, having always the best workmen that can be 
found. The location is one of the best in the city and its 
proprietor the best known in the city and throughout the 
whole country as well. About two years ago Mr. Delight 
met with the sad loss of a little daughter aged one year. 
The child was beautiful, and tlie father, it seems, could not 
part with his little treasure ; he idolized her and thought 
everything of the child. It must be remembered that Mr, 
D. was a very dissipated man ; he drank to excess, gam- 
bled, frequented places of indecent character and would 
use unbecoming language. He was called the notorious 
Delight on account of his dissipating traits. When death 
came and knocked at his door and took his darling little 
treasure it seemed to be more than he could bear, such was 
his love for the child. He mourned over his darling and 
wondered day after day if it would ever be possible for him 
to be permitted to look into that angelic face at some fu- 
ture time, and the thought came to him that no drunkard 
should ever enter the kingdom of heaven. This was hard 
to contemplate ; but he thought of one way, and one only, 
and that was if he could become a sober man, a child of 
God, he might enter the kingdom and mingle with the one 
that was so near and dear to him. Overcome by the feel- 
ing that melted his heart, he knelt the first time for many, 
many years, and with an uplifted brow, and tears stream- 
ing down his face, prayed to the heavenly Father more 
fervently than he had ever done in his life to have mercy 
on him and to lead him into the path of truth and righteous- 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 4.Z 

ness. It was but a short time before Mr. D. felt entirely 
like a different man. He went to church with his wife 
and became identified with it. and to-day he is one of the 
most earnest workers in the cause of Christ. I had the 
pleasure of hearing Mr. Delight speak and pray at several 
meetings while in the city. Tony Delight is to day a re- 
formed drunkard, though some no doubt think he is not 
in earnest. I have no reason to believe otherwise, at least 
my fervent prayer is that he may continue to follow the 
same path that he has for two years past, and that his last 
days may be devoted to the good work which is before him. 

Mr. S. La Bourslier. — This establishment is one of the 
first-class shops in the city, and in a very good location. It 
has nine chairs and eight bathing-rooms, and is fitted up 
in good style. Mr. B. is an industrious man and a first- 
class workman, working at his chair when it is necessary 
for him to do so. He is a good manager, and a man well 
liked. The number is 117 East Madison street. 

Clifton House Shop, Mr. Chris. Ackerman, proprietor. 
This shop has six chairs ; is neatly fitted up, and does a 
splendid business. Mr. A. is the present Secretary of the 
Barbers' Union, a man of good talent, well-behaved and 
highly esteemed. 

William Bennett. — This establishment is on East Madison 
street, opposite McVicker's Theater. Mr. Bennett has 
been in business for nearly forty years. He has made Chi- 
cago his home for a great many years, and has been one of 
the leading artists in the city, especially in the bathing de- 
partment. Mr. B. has always taken great pains to keep up 
this branch of the business in a manner creditable to him- 
self and also commodious to all his patrons. He runs four 
chairs and seven or eight bath-rooms. 

Thomas E. Whelan. — This establishment is on the south- 



42 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

cast corner of Clark and Washington streets. It is a large 
and commodious room with nine chairs, plainly but neatly 
fitted up. Mr. W. has been in the city for twelve years, 
but like many others luck has not been on his side at all 
times. He is ambitious, and of good business qualities — 
a gentleman in every respect. 

Briggs House Shop, William Reed, proprietor. This shop 
has five chairs, and does a good business. Mr. R. is not 
a professional artist, but has kept barber-shop for several 
years. He is a man of fine intellect, a very pleasant gen- 
tleman, and is supposed to be well off. 

One of the best establishments on the north side is that 
of Mr. P. Adam, 51 and 53 North Clark street. It is quite 
a large room, with four chairs and bathing-rooms, and does 
a good business. Mr. A. has been in business for many 
years, and is well-to-do. 

Another good shop is at No. 70 North Clark street, 
Fred. P. Kappelman, proprietor. This shop has four 
chairs and does a good business. Toilet articles are kept 
constantly on hand. 

ST. LOUIS. 

The best establishment in the city of St. Louis, if not in 
the country, is the Lindell Hotel barber shop, Prof. Wm. 
Roberson, colored, proprietor. Prof. Roberson has been 
the leading barber in the city for many years. He is a 
man of considerable experience in the business ; he has 
studied every part of it from his boyhood, and takes de- 
light in bringing forth any improvement that will tend to 
purify and elevate the trade. He is a good scholar and a 
very polite gentleman, being one of the best-posted men 
in the business that I met on my trip. I was shown all 
through the establishment by the Professor, and I must 
say that it surpasses any establishment I ever saw in this 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 4.3 

country. The main entrance to the shop is on Washing- 
ton avenue. There are two large windows, and a door in 
the center. Two beautiful lace curtains adorn the win- 
dows, while vases of flowers ornament the same, present- 
ing to the passer-by a sight to be admired for an institution 
of that character. The room is twenty-four feet front by 
fifty deep. Twelve Western barber chairs, made expressly 
for the establishment by Arnd Brothers, of that city, adorn 
the spacious room, six on each side. The walls are cov- 
ered with three different kinds of marble reaching half-way 
to the ceiling. The ceiling is beautifully painted, and on 
the walls are some beautiful statues. The painting alone 
cost over one thousand dollars. In the center of the room 
is a large and beautiful marble wash-stand, with a marble 
pyramid nine feet high, on top of which is a candelabrum 
with fourteen lights or globes, and one on the very top be- 
ing red. In front of every chair are two lights. On each 
stand is a silver castor with four bottles. The shaving- 
cups used by the workmen are of silver ; the brush has 
also a silver handle, and can be taken apart. The cup-case 
is undoubtedly the largest in the country, holding five 
hundred cups, and most of them are used. The coat-room 
is in the back part, separate from the shop ; the coats be- 
ing passed in by the brush-boy through a large window to 
one in charge of the said room. When some of the work- 
men are at leisure they often go to the coat-room to rest 
or smoke, as they are not allowed to sit around the shop 
and smoke. 

Of the bathing department of this establishment, I copy 
from the St. Louis Dispatch of December ist, 1876, the fol- 
lowing description by the reporter of that journal : 

Lavatory Luxuries — Opening of an Listitidion for the Purification and Pleas- 
ure of Alankind. 

The Turkish bath has been written about perhaps as much as any other 



To)isonal Art Pamphlet 



pleasurable institution, either in the Orient or Occident. Mark Twaia 
was the first one to give it a prominent footing among literary Momuse* 
of this country, since which time scientific men have critically analyzed 
Its properties, and entered their opinion, which in brief is, that hygienic- 
ally and comfortably sjjeaking, the Turkish bath is a blessing for which a 
Thanksgiving Day should be especially set apart. 

Every city of decided metropolitan taste and population has its Turkish 
bath : the finest one belongs to San Francisco; the most successful, per- 
haps, to Chicago ; but the most perfect, pleasure-dispensing, complete and 
satisfactory one, belongs to Prof. Wm. Roberson, the proprietor of the 
barber shop attached to the Lindell Hotel. A reporter of the Dispatch 
made an examination of this establishment to-day, and the result is found 
in the following : 

Prof. Roberson has been engaged for nearly two years preparing his 
bath-rooms, giving the most complete study to ventilation, light, comfort 
and general result, and has built his bath-rooms on the most scientific 
principles, which may readily l)e perceived by anyone passing through 
the institution. 

He has studiously refrained from making any mention of his establish- 
ment until now, owing to the incompleteness of its minor details, but now 
he is ready and invites inspection. The Turkish bath-rooms are immedi- 
ately underneath the barber shop, and may be entered either from Wash- 
ington avenue or through the ladies' entrance of the Lindell Hotel. The 
first apartment reached by the descent from the barber shop is the cool- 
ing-room, which is one of the most magnificent apartments of the kind in 
.this country. Here are the dressing-cases and lounges; the room is beau- 
tifully lighted by sky-lighls and recess windows, in which are flowers, 
aquariums, etc., and on the sides are hung plate-glass looking-glasses in 
such a manner that occupants command a view of all the entrances with- 
out themselves being observed. The ventilation of the room is simply 
remarkable. The painters were at work when the reporter entered, but 
the ventilation is so perfect that not the slightest odor from the paint or 
varnish was perceptible. 

The rooms — four in number — through which the bather passes for the 
various degrees of heat, are so arranged that the doors to each are left 
•open at all times, making a clear passage way, so that the increase of heat 
in entering and the decrease on coming out is so gradual that the effect is 
extremely pleasuraljle. In each room the light and ventilation is com- 
plete ; in fact there is, perhaps, not another as well-ventilated Turkish 
bath establishment in the country. 

In addition to the Turkish bath is the sulphur and steam bath, in 
which the arrangement is most complete, the details of which require 
more space than is now at command. 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. ^£ 

The electric bath, under charge of Dr. D. A. Kusel, is the finest insti- 
tution of the kind in America. The arrangement is such that the opera- 
tor has the electric currents under his own command, making it strike the 
body at any place or at any angle. It is the only one of the kind in the 
United States, and its perfection recommends it in a manner more forci- 
ble than any newspaper article. 

In addition to these is an eight by twelve feet plunge-bath connected 
with the Turkish bath, the water of which is pumped up, let out and 
heated by steam. Then there are the regular bath-tubs of marble, cop- 
per and porcelain-lined iron tubs, and in fact baths of any kind and char- 
acter, the arrangement of all being perfect in every respect. The barber 
shop is conceded by all travelers to be the finest in the country, and is in 
every respect perfectly magnificent. 

The barber shop and bath-rooms will be open for the inspection of the 
public on Monday evening, at five o'clock, when they will be brilliantly 
illuminated and will present a grand appearance. 

It is a brilliant sight to look at, when the establishment 
is in full glow at night. There are five different kinds of 
marble in the shop, and it is often called the Ton.sorial 
Marble Palace. The lights that illuminate the establish- 
ment are forty in number. Too much praise can not be 
given to Prof. Roberson for his systematic manner and dis- 
play of taste in presenting to the public such a complete 
establishment. It is undoubtedly the finest institution of 
the kind in the country, if not in the world. 

There are several other first-class establishments in the 
city, among which is the Southern Hotel shop, which has 
nine chairs. 

The Planters' House Shop has seven chairs ; Mr. J. H. 
Gerhard has been its proprietor for over thirty years. He 
is well educated in both the German and English languages, 
and is comfortably well off. 

The Laclede Hotel Shop has five chairs and as many bath- 
ing rooms. There is a novel feature in connection with 
the bathing rooms that attracted my attention, and the 
only establishment I visited that had anything of the kind. 



jf.6 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

The bathing rooms are in rotation, and over the entrance 
of each runs a shaft on which a revolving fan is attached, 
which is constantly running in the summer time ; thus the 
rooms are kept cool and very comfortable. This is another 
luxury, and a very appreciable one I should judge. 

SAN FRANCISCO. 

TJie Palace Hotel Shop, in the above city, is undoubtedly 
the finest establishment west of St. Louis. It has ten or 
twelve chairs, and is fitted up elegantly, costing nearly 
twenty thousand dollars. , 

The Montgomejy Baths is one of the best and most com- 
plete institutions in the country. 

There are several fine shops in the city, and they all do 
a good business and get good prices for their work, but no 
poor workman need apply in a first-class shop in the city 
of San Francisco. First-class workmen are nearly always 
in demand in the above city. 

IN THE HOOSIER CAPITAL. 

Our business in Indianapolis, like that in all other cities, 
is not very thriving at the present time. The trade in this 
city always has been good until a few years past. 

For several years prior to 1874 Mr. William Russell, 
colored, controlled the business in this city, but like a good 
many other men, could not bear prosperity long enough 
to accumulate sufficient of that which in time of need is a 
friend indeed, Mr. R. by some mismanagement became 
rather reckless, so that he soon waved his hand and bid 
farewell to the good fortune before him. At one time Mr. 
Russell carried on three of the best shops in the city ; at 
present he is out of the business. 

Mr. Wm. Gulliver, colored, is also one of the oldest art- 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. ^7 

ists in the city. He is well-off now, and can live the rest 
of his days without scraping another chin. 

There are several good, and \ may say first-class, shops 
here for a city of its size. Among the best are the follow- 
ing : 

The Grand Hotel shop has six chairs and bathing rooms, 
and is fitted up rather plain but very neat and inviting. It 
is quite a large room and the best ventilated in the city. 
The establishment is carried on by the hotel, Mr. Harry 
Ashcraft being the manager, Mr. A. is a good business 
man, and a gentleman in every sense of the word. 

Next is the Occidental Hotel shop, Mr. Philip Epstein, 
proprietor. This shop also has six chairs and bathing 
rooms. 

The next is the Hotel Bates shop, Mr. E. Carter, col- 
ored, proprietor. This shop has seven chairs and bathing 
rooms, and is very neatly fitted up. Mr. C. carries on an- 
other shop on North Pennsylvania street of five chairs and 
bath-rooms. 

Next is a shop in the Y. M. C. A. Building, Mr. I. B. 
Hettinger, proprietor. It has five chairs, and is to have 
bathing rooms. 

Next is the firm of Brand & Harms, Circle House. This 
shop has also five chairs. This firm commenced here in 
1870, and through their steady habits and strict attention 
to business have received their full share of patronage, and 
are comfortably well off. 

Mr. Henry Heitkam was the leading hair-cutter here for 
years. He left his old quarters and has opened a very 
neat shop in Vance Block. 

Mr. Victor Ware is continuing at the old stand. 
Mr. John Sartoris has been in the business in this city 
for many years, and keeps a shop of four chairs under the 
old Franklin Building, 



48 Tonsotial Art Pamphlet. 



George Firling, lately deceased, was one of the oldest 
in the business here. Mr. F. came from Cincinnati twen- 
ty-three years ago, and opened a shop on the corner of 
Washington and Meridian streets, where he had always 
been until his death. He was well-off, leaving his family 
in very good circumstances. 

The Enterprise Hotel barber shop, on Massachusetts av- 
enue, has five chairs, and is carried on by Mr. Herman 
Jaekel, of Philadelphia, a man of fine qualities and a splen- 
did scholar. 

These comprise all the best shops in the city. The bar- 
ber's trade in Indianapolis, like that of Chicago, has kept 
up with other business, showing just as much enterprise in 
this branch as in any other. To look at our business here 
to-day, and compare it with that of six or seven years ago, 
one would hardly realize the change. There is no inland 
city in the country in which such wonderful changes have 
taken place. 

These statistics will readily show to those who are not 
informed of the character and magnitude of the business, 
that it requires, at the present time, not only money to 
open a first-class barber shop, but also a thorough business 
man to manage it. It requires really a man with more 
good qualities than most men require in any other business. 
In the first place he must have some education and busi- 
ness tact ; in the second place, he should be polite, cour- 
teous and amiable — a man, indeed, who is able to go into 
any society and be looked to as an example of politeness 
and refinement. There are many of these men through- 
out the country, hit a certain class of society fails to recog- 
nize them, often ignoring them entirely. It is not without 
regret that I am compelled at this time to speak of that 
class of society, but it is with the hope that in the future 



Tonsonal Art Pamphlet. 4.^ 

prejudice and bigotry may be thrown aside and justice 
done to whom justice is due. 

To illustrate or corroborate my statement, I will present 
one of the many rebuffs often displayed by that certain 
class : A young man attends a public or private ball ; he 
is well-dressed, looks neat, intelligent and prepossessing. 
He attracts the attention of some high-toned young lady, 
whose feelings rise above the clouds, and whose haughty 
disposition and overbearing manners fail to meet the ap- 
probation of true society. She wishes to know what the 
young man's name is, and what his occupation may be — 
she wishes to form his acquaintance. She is told that his 
name is Mr, Williams, and that he keeps a barber shop 
around the corner or some other locality, to which she 
promptly replies: "Ola b-a-r-b-e-r ! Never mind, I will 
form his acquaintance at some future time." 

Many of my readers have no doubt been cognizant of 
this unbecoming and unjust treatment. Little that young 
lady may think or suppose that that very young artist may 
have sprung from just as high-toned family as she ; that 
he may be just as well educated and informed as she is, 
and able to enter just as good society. Unavoidable cir- 
cumstances might have led him to learn that particular 
trade, but he is no less a gentleman, a scholar, a man of 
honor, if he behaves properly, simply because he is a bar- 
ber. It is very wrong to judge a man by his trade or the 
clothes he wears. Judge not lest ye may be judged. I 
am well aware that there are many men in our business 
who are not fit to mingle with good society, but we find 
such men in all trades and in all business ; and why a bar- 
ber should be excluded from first-class society, if he is de- 
serving, is beyond my comprehension. I find, however, 
that the very class who often sneer at a barber are deprived 
of good common sense, learning, or even good manners^ 
4 



JO Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 



save a little money with which to spread on style. I have 
always been treated with respect, whenever I deserved it, 
by the highly-educated class ; but I have often been 
shunned under the same circumstances by that class which 
feeds on the husks of ignorance, protected only by their 

wealth. 

THE LUXURY OF A GOOD SHAVE. 

In our business, as in many other kinds, there is a feat- 
ure which is generally appreciated by a certain class of cus 
tom. To them it is a source of pleasure, and is enjoyed, 
beyond doubt. This class of custom is compose'd of men 
of education and culture, whose sensibilities are keener 
than the very razor that smoothly glides over their intelli- 
o-ent faces ; whose appreciation of that which is best and 
most pleasing to the delicate taste never fails to gleam from 
their unmistakable countenances. This class of custom is 
usually welcomed by the artist, and as soon as he enters 
the establishment can readily be told by him. Here comes 
one of these gentlemen. He generally bows on entering, 
or bids the time of day to those present, and especially to 
the particular artist who usually performs the pleasant op- 
eration. He generally takes off his coat, takes the chair he 
prefers, and the operation commences. A long clean cloth 
is spread over his unspotted garments, while a small linen 
towel is tucked around the shining collar to prevent its soil- 
ing. As the customer lies back upon the celebrated Roch- 
ester or Archer chair, or some other number one chair, the 
following language may be read in the customer's counte- 
nance : 

Shave me easy and fix me nice; 

Take of your time, regardless of price. 

The unmistakable appeal is answered by the artist's light 
and easy touch, and by the artistic manner in which he 
handles the keen-edged tool ; so soothing to the customer 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 5/ 

does the operation become, that it draws the great Mor- 
pheus to the scene of action, and in a moment more the 
invisible visitor has full and complete control of the pros- 
trate customer, leaving him at the mercy of the artist. In 
this manner he remains until the first act closes, when a 
towel or sponge moistened with the refreshing "aqua" is 
applied to that part of the visage, driving away the sleepy 
god, when the customer fully awakens, feeling as fresh as 
a rose and as happy as a lord ; then his smooth locks are 
combed in the latest style, and he pays his bill and starts 
off contentedly. Very often this class of customers turn 
out to be different from what the artist even may suspect. 
While they may look to be business men and men of high 
standing, many of them turn out to be men of game — bun- 
ko, etc. This class, however, are generally very liberal, 
and withal polite and courteous. 

In the good old days of '66, until the Chicago fire, this 
class made the barber business lively in that city ; but, as 
the Tribune stated, they received a special invitation to 
leave the city or desist from their unlawful business. They 
accepted the advice of the city fathers and took a walk to 
other parts. This is one reason for the falling off of the 
business ; but there are other reasons. We must not for- 
get that hair dyeing has nearly died out. Within the last 
four or five years hair-dyeing has absconded from our gaze. 
Not one man out of a thousand that used to have his whis- 
kers colored thinks of doing so at present, and more espe- 
cially on account of our Centennial year. Gray or white 
hair is now a la mode. George and Martha Washingtons 
are all the rage. Well, George was a sensible man ; be- 
sides, hair-dye was then unknown. Still another reason, 
and that is, the style of wearing the hair much shorter than 
in former times. For the last six or seven years the Bos- 
ton cut, once so called, or the "feather-edge," as it is called 



5^ Tonsorial Art Pa7nphlet. 

at present, has been the favorite cut. It is a very neat 
style, and very becoming to some persons, but to others it 
looks very ugly and unbecoming. It would not be to the 
credit of any hair dresser who would advise a customer to 
have his hair feather-edged if his head was not the right 
shape for it, or if he knew especially that it was not be- 
coming at all. In the genuine Boston cut, the neck is not 
shaped on the sides with the razor, and I would suggest 
the adoption of the original cut or style : trim or shape the 
hair only to the lower part of the ear, and below that trim 
the neck short with scissors. 

There is one fault with many hair cutters that I wish to 
mention. When they are asked to cut the hair feather 
edge, they cut it scalp edge, or some other edge besides 
feather edge. They cut the hair as short very near to the 
crown as they do on the neck. It does not look neat, 
neither does it conform to the feather edge style. One 
other fault with the majority of hair cutters is, that they 
cut the hair generally too short. This is a constant com- 
plaint of the customers. A little more caution in this di- 
rection would prevent so much fault-finding of the custom- 
ers. The present style does away with a great deal of hair 
oil, bay rum and other perfumery used in former times. 
These causes make a great deal of difference in the busi- 
ness; besides the barber shops have become so numerous 
that the trade is necessarily much divided ; and with all 
the depression of business at present on account of the 
financial crisis, it is no wonder that the barber business 
should be dull. But there is one other reason which I 
deem it very essential to mention. There are hundreds of 
barbers, and I am safe in saying thousands of them, who 
by a great mistake and not by profession call themselves 
barbers, whose proper sphere is on a farm, in a blacksmith 
shop or at some other laborious occupation. They neither 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. jj 

have the taste, tact, patience or politeness required of a 
first-class workman. In fact, the great majority of them 
never learned enough of the trade to know the first princi- 
ples of it. The time was when an apprentice had to serve 
three years to learn the trade, but at the present time three 
or six months seem sufficient, so they think. This ac- 
counts for so many workmen being out of employment. 
This class of one-horse barbers very often crowd out many 
first-class workmen whose experience in business should 
assure them constant employment. I know of no way tO' 
remedy this imposition, as I may so call it, only through 

the 

BARBERS' UNIONS. 

I am in favor of these Unions for several reasons : First, 
because they are beneficial to the fraternity, not only in a. 
business point of view, but also morally and socially. 
Second, because through the Unions the class I have just 
alluded to may receive the proper attention and be placed 
where they properly belong. Third, because a general or 
mutual fund might be organized or established which would 
benefit the fraternity materially and help especially those 
who through misfortune are left at the mercies of the pop- 
ulace. These are the main reasons that I can give. But 
while I am in favor of these Unions, I do not wish to see 
them trifled with. I wish to see them upheld in all ear- 
nestness and conducted with sincerity and firmness. A 
Grand Union Lodge might be started in some large city, 
and also the mutual fund referred to. 

I noticed in the article of the Tribune that a movement 
was on foot to compel the barbers to work on a per centage. 
Experience has taught many a proprietor that this thing of 
working on halves will not do. I will give a {&\n reasons : 
First, a shop of six chairs, for instance, is liable to change 
men once in a while, and sometimes very often ; those who 



5^ Tonsoriai Art Pamphlet. 

happen to stay any length of time naturally monopolize 
the custom of the shop, while the newcomer, though he 
may be just as good a workman, often fails to get his share 
of work. Second, if the chairs are all occupied and a man 
with long hair enters the shop, each man feels that he 
ought to get at the stranger's hair so that he may profit 
by the bill, consequently they will hurry as much as possi- 
ble, and very often slight the customer in the chair in order 
to get the other in. This does not pay in any .shop ; it 
only drives away customers. If business is dull the best 
way is to reduce the wages or do with less men until busi- 
ness improves. But to put the men on a per centage, 
there are onl>' a few shops that can do it successfully. 

HOW THE WORK SHOULD BE DONE. 

There is only one way to do everything right, and that 
is, the right way. In our business, as in all others, there 
is no exception to this rule. In watching a mechanic at 
work, we may be able to detect how hard or how easy it 
is for him to perform his labor. There is no artizan who 
is so closely watched at his work as the barber ; and the 
customer who constantly patronizes the barber shop can 
generally tell by the manner in which the artist works what 
kind of a workman he is. 

As I wish to benefit every man who is in the business, 
and give him the worth of his money if he should buy this 
book, I wish to give him all the information I can regard- 
ing the trade. We know very well that there are many 
inefficient workmen in the business — some who had not 
proper teaching while learning the trade, and others be- 
cause they do not pay particular attention to the work. 
A boy commencing to learn the trade has the idea that he 
can learn it in six months' time, and feels able then to open 
a shop for himself. I would advise any boy wishing to 



To)isorial Aj't Pamphlet. J5 

iearn the trade never to think so. A boy may learn the 
rudiments of the trade in a year, but that is when he really 
•only commences. Six years is more likely to be the pro- 
per time necessary to learn it thoroughly than six months. 
It is the practice that is required, and not merely the idea 
how it should be done. 

SHAVING. 

The first thing to be done when a customer takes the 
chair, is to put jt in the right position, so that he may rest 
easy. Then the cloth is spread over him and a small towel 
tucked around the neck in the easiest possible manner ; 
then follows the lathering. The lather should never be 
made in the cup, but on the face. The cup should be well 
rinsed, and the tips of the brush passed over the soap. 
Many barbers fill the cup full of lather before they touch 
the face with the brush ; you not only waste soap, but are 
apt to slobber the towel, besides it is not proper. The 
face should be lathered but once, but we have few soaps 
that will stand long enough without drying. Williams' 
soap will do it, while I also found another soap in Coving- 
ton, Ky., made by Heckman & Co., that will stand first- 
rate. I tried it by the side of the Williams soap ; it did 
not stand as long, but came closer than any other soap I 
tried. Those who make barbers' soap think they must 
make an article that will raise lather to the top of the cup 
by two or three revolutions of the brush, but they never 
will succeed with such an idea in their heads. 

The proper position for shaving is an upright one, with 
no bending of the body whatever. Many workmen bend 
right over and sometimes rest the elbow on the person of 
the customer ; this position looks very bad, and is not only 
uncomfortable for the operator but also for the customer. 

Shaving has its natural regulations. Some customers 



S6 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

like to be shaved fast and some slow ; and some artists 
shave fast and some slow ; consequently when a workman 
finds out how a custonier wishes to be shaved, it is an easy 
matter to please him if the artist knows his business. The 
size of razor used should be considered, especially if the 
face is tender. A large-size razor will shave a heavy beard 
and tough skin first-rate, but a tender face should inevita- 
bly be shaved with a small razor. There is considerable 
spring to a large thin razor, and it is that spring that causes 
it to pull, though it may have a good edge on. Concavers 
should be very careful and not get the blade too thin. If 
a razor is middling wide it should not be ground too thin,, 
but a small and narrow razor will bear the blade a little 
thinner. 

Wiping the Face. — After shaving, take the small towel 
from the neck and place the long cloth in its stead. Wet 
the end of the towel in cold water and remove the lather 
well, then if the customer wishes bay-rum, apply in the 
same manner, but never apply the bay-rum first unless di- 
rected to do so by the customer. On a tender face strong 
bay-rum sometimes irritates the skin instead of soothing it,, 
but by applying the water first it takes somewhat of the 
soreness out, and the bay-rum afterwards is not so severe. 
Bay-rum has a tendency to heal the skin, and for that rea- 
son is so commonly used. In wiping the customer's face^ 
the lips especially should be wiped dry ; this is very often 
neglected. If the lips are left wet the whole face feels the 

same way. 

HAIR DRESSING. 

The art of hair dressing is very much unlike that of shav- 
ing. It is not always the case that a number one shaver 
is a number one hair dresser ; the former may have the 
tact, but the latter must have the taste. The hair should 
be well brushed before applying any dressing to it ; then 



lonsonal Art Pamphlet. 57 

it should be wet if the customer desires it, and the oil then 
applied should it be wanted. The oil should be applied 
first on the temples and front of the hair ; the reason of 
this is that it requires a little more in front on account of 
exposure to the atmosphere, it drying more rapidly there. 
When the hair is wet and oiled, it should be well brushed 
all over before parting, for three reasons : i . Because the 
wetting of the scalp invariably makes it itch, besides, the 
great majority of customers enjoy having the head well 
brushed ; 2. Because in brushing the hair it becomes limber 
and soft, and it can be dressed much easier by the artist — 
this is one particular feature of a number one hair dresser ; 
3. Because in applying the dressing, the ears, forehead, and 
neck become oily, and when the hair is brushed in the last 
round, it should be brushed up toward the crown, and 
then with a towel clean the forehead, ears and neck well. 
This act is invariably appreciated by the customer. The 
brush should always be used in the right hand and the 
comb in the left, unless in the case of left-handed work- 
men. 

HAIR CUTTING. 

The most difficult part of the business is that of hair cut- 
ting, and this branch is criticised more than any other. 
Hair cutting, like hair dressing, requires taste and skill. 
The French hair cutters are supposed to be the best in the 
world. This fact clearly demonstrates that great taste as 
well as skill is required for this branch of the business. 
We find many number one shavers among the colored 
workmen, but in hair cutting they are deficient to a cer- 
tain extent. The Germans display a great deal of taste in 
hair cutting and hair dressing, and there are more number 
one German barbers in this country than of any other na- 
tionality ; they naturally take to the trade. The Irish do 
not take to the trade as well, and they are not as numer- 



^8 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

ous, but when we come across a good Irish barber he is 
generally as near perfection as he can be. The best barber 
that ever worked in the city of San Francisco, California, 
was an Irishman. The trade came naturally to him — he 
was all taste, so to speak. The Germans take more pains 
in trying to please their customers than any other nation- 
ality ; they are more persevering and good-natured. The 
French are more independent, and stand more on their 
•dignity. They will try to please, but in their attempts to 
do so, should they perceive that they have made a failure, 
they become irritable, and often will use words in their own 
tongue not found in the dictionary. 

The position in hair cutting, like that in shaving, is up- 
right, and should be as natural as possible. It looks very 
bad and awkward to see a hair cutter all twisted out of 
shape, and making all kinds of faces every time he opens 
and closes the shears. There are some workmen who look 
graceful at their labor, while to others it is hard work. A 
man who does his work easily and tastefully, you can de- 
pend on, and put him down as a first-class artist ; but one 
who puts himself all out of shape in cutting a head of hair 
is lacking in the trade very materially. 

Having already spoken of the different styles of hair cut- 
ting, it needs no further mention, except that in trimming 
a full beard at the temples, where the hair joins, it should 
never be cut across — the hair should always join the beard. 
This is one great fault with some hair cutters ; a little more 
caution in this respect would prevent fault-finding, which is 
very often unavoidable on the part of the customer. 

SHAMPOOING. 

Though this part of the business appears to be very easy 
to perform, many workmen fail to do it right ; they will 
slobber everything all over, and often do not clean the 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 5p 

head as well as they should. In the first place the sham- 
poo should be made right, so that it may foam well and 
easy ; secondly, the head should be rubbed well all over, 
and it would be better in nearly all cases to use a hair- 
brush, but one not so stiff as to irritate the scalp. Soft 
water should be used whenever it can be had. Oil silk 
cloth should be adopted for shampooing purposes, the rub- 
ber ones being too heavy for that use. 



MANUFACTURERS OF GOODS FOR THE TRADE. 



THE ROCHESTER OR ARCHER CHAIR. 

The business of this firm was started some twenty years 
ago in Rochester, N. Y., by Robert W. and George W. 
Archer. At that time they personally made all the goods 
they sold. They increased their business until the firm of 
R. W. Archer & Brother, and the reputation of their bar- 
ber and dental chairs, was known throughout the United 
States and a large part of Europe. By the death of R. W. 
Archer, in 1873, Geo. W. Archer succeeded to the entire 
business, and now owns and occupies his present factory, 
a handsome brick building 50 by 90 feet, with seven floors^ 
in which he has all the improved labor-saving machinery, 
and employs about seventy-five hands, besides giving em- 
ployment to a large number outside. As I went through 
the establishment I was amazed to see how extensive, com- 
plete, and systematic every department was. The business 
of the firm amounts to one hundred thousand dollars per 
year, and he is now shipping his barber and dental chairs 
nearly all over the world, having regular agents in Great 
Britain and Germany. Mr. Archer has just brought out 
an entirely new specimen in the barber chair line, (we re- 
fer to the center cut. No. 5, in his advertisement on the 
outside cover), which is made of iron, and so adjusted that 
each part can be separated to facilitate shipping in large 
quantities. The chair attracted my attention considerably. 
It is handsome and the most convenient barber chair ever 



Tonsonal Art Pamphlet. 6i 



offered to the trade, and at the same time the lowest 
priced adjustable chair in the market. I advertise the 
Rochester or Archer chair from principle. It is the best 
chair, in my estimation, in the world, consequently I feel 
to speak of its merits. I have worked on the said chair 
for years, and I wish no better. It is easy to sit in, easy 
to manage, durable, well built and finished, the material 
used being the best that can be had, therefore it is the 
cheapest chair in the market and the best that can be found. 
All the genuine Rochester or Archer chairs have the 
name of the firm on the castings, and can be purchased 
through any first-class furniture dealer or from the firm di- 
rect. 

WILLIAMS' BARBERS' BAR SOAP. 

Nearly everything that has been used in our line of bus- 
iness for the last twenty-five years has undergone an im- 
provement to some extent, save one article, namely, "Wil- 
liams' barbers' bar soap." Furniture, razors, perfumeties, 
hair-oils, cosmetics and powders — all these have been im- 
proved ; but there is one article that has been in use all 
these years that shows a remarkable record, and whose 
original creation was so perfect that improvement appears 
to have been impossible. The article in question is the 
soap mentioned above. Notwithstanding several attempts 
have been made by several parties to surpass it, the result 
shows an utter failure to even equal it in any particu- 
lar. It is a high-priced soap, but has always proved to be 
the cheapest. 

This famous soap is manufactured by J. B. Williams & 
Co., at Glastonbury, Conn., who are successors to "Wil- 
liams & Brother," of Manchester, Conn., the originators of 
the " Genuine Yankee Soap," which has had a successful 
run of over thirty years. Of this famous soap it is not nec- 
essary to speak ; so great was its popularity that the man- 



62 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

ufacturers were induced to prepare a soap specially for the 
use of barbers, which under the name of " Williams' Bar- 
bers' Bar Soap" has for nearly twenty years been the favor- 
ite with the craft; which though costing more per pound 
than some others, is probably quite as economical as any, 
and far more pleasant to the customer — this we know from 
actual experience, having used this famous soap a number 
of years. A Philadelphia barber recently stated that his 
"boss," who was using a cheap soap, forbade him using 
"Williams' soap," even at his own expense, because so 
many of his customers preferred to be shaved with it, and 
would not let the other workmen shave them. It is safe 
to say that the leading barbers in the country use it, and as 
2, family toilet soap it is fast displacing the impure but high- 
ly-scented trash with which the country is flooded. Its 
absolute purity, and the rich, creamy, softening quality of 
the lather it produces, are its essential excellencies. One 
lathering is sufficient for shaving. 

The same firm manufactures numerous other soaps which 
are perfectly pure, and are considered by the public as su- 
perior to the innumerable brands made by other parties. 
The Bath Soap has gained a wide-spread notoriety, and 
the manufacturers may well be proud of the favor in which 
it is held by the public. We can testify to its good quali- 
ties and the healthy glow and sensation it imparts, because 
we have used it ourselves. 

The following is a list of the soaps manufactured by J. 
B. Williams & Co.: Genuine Yankee Soap, Tonsorial Soap,. 
Pocket Shaving Soap, Clipper Shaving Soap, Barbers' Fa- 
vorite, Perfumed Pumice Soap, Poncine Soap, Bath Soap, 
Verbena Cream Tablet, all of which are highly approved 
by those who have used them. 

TIIF. WESTERN BARBER CHAIR FACTORY. 

The above manufactory is located in the city of St. Louis, 



Tousorial Ai't PampJilct. 6j 

No. 107 South Second street. The proprietors are Henry 
Arnd & Bro., who for many years have been in business 
in the said city. I visited the estabhshment and went all 
through it and examined every department thoroughly, 
and found it to be quite an extensive estabhshment carried 
on in a very systematic manner. 

One of the annoyances of life of which ladies, happily 
for them, are exempted, is the trouble of shaving. Bad 
coffee, burnt steak in the morning, etc., are enough to 
ruffle a temper; but a dull razor and a three days old beard 
are more than the most serene and amiable disposition can 
stand without at least thinking of some language not to be 
found in the vocabulary of names. Men who love ease,, 
comfort and luxury, soon learn to appreciate and enjoy the 
manipulations of a scientific professor of the tonsorial art ; 
but all the enjoyment of an easy shave, and the luxury of 
being nicely barbered, do not depend on the keenness of 
the instrument and the delicacy of touch of the knight of 
the razor alone — the subject must be comfortably seated in 
a chair that will not make a crick in his neck, a stitch in 
his back, and a feeling generally that old age has caught 
him. 

The Western Barber Chair is one of the best chairs in 
the country, and I take pleasure in recommending it to the 
public. It is a chair in which a customer can take his ease 
and feel comfortable. It is raised and lowered to suit both 
the operator and the subject upon whom he is at work. 

Messrs. Arnd & Bro. have been in business many years, 
and it has become so much increased by the constant de- 
mand for their goods as to compel them to secure the spa- 
cious quarters where they are now located, and are able to- 
meet the demand in their line in a very satisfactory manner. 
The building is four stories high, very convenient, and is 
occupied by this firm exclusively. They manufacture five 



6^ Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

different styles of chairs, ranging in price from ^55.00 to 
$22.. 50, all of which are well made and in good style. 

The No. 4 Western Barber Chair is Mr. Arnd's inven- 
tion, on which he has applied for a patent, and is one of 
the most perfect chairs that has ever been introduced, with 
the most perfect apparatus for adjusting to any desired po- 
sition. The frame of this chair and stool is made of solid 
black walnut, elegantly carved, and both are beautifully 
upholstered with green or crimson plush, and the foot- 
boards of the stool lined with sheet brass. The "No. 3 " 
is the same chair in a plainer style of finish. 

.The most complete assortment of everything that bar- 
bers use is to be found in this establishment — cabinets, 
cup-cases, shelves and mirrors, razors of every make, strops, 
brushes, combs, shears, signs, cups with plain and fancy 
labels, bottles, and Williams' and other soaps, 

Messrs. Arnd & Bro. import the best China mugs direct, 
and have in their employ the most skilled artists in making 
labels to the same. Their samples are the best designed 
and executed of all that I have seen. 

Messrs. Arnd & Bro. publish an illustrated catalogue and 
price-list, which they will mail on application. They are also 
western agents for the Archer or Rochester chair. It would 
be well for those wanting anything in the barber line to send 
■for a price-list to this firm. "Promptness and fair deal- 
ing" is the watchword of the house. 

SMITH BROTFIERS. 

In the Eastern States we found that the firm of Messrs, 
Smith Brothers, No. 349 Washington street, Boston, was 
the oldest and leading firm of cutlers and manufacturers 
and dealers in hair dressers' sundries. 

This house was founded in 1840 by Mr. Andrew Wed- 
del, a Scotchman, and exceptionally skilled practical cutler. 



Tonsonal Art Pamphlet. 65 

whose work obtained a fine local reputation. Returning to 
Scotland in 1854, he was succeeded by James Smith, his 
former apprentice, who, in 1857, being joined by his 
brother, John W. Smith, formed the present firm of Smith 
Brothers. 

In examining the goods kept by this firm I found them 
superior in quality to those kept in any other establish- 
ment in the Eastern cities. They deal only in first-class 
goods, and they are bound to please all who will patronize 
them, and their prices are very reasonable. Smith Bros, 
publish a catalogue and price list, and will forward it to 
any part of the country on application. 

BELL, MANN & CO. 

Chicago has several firms of dealers in barbers' supplies. 
This business is carried on very extensively in that city 
from the fact that over four thousand barbers are to be sup- 
plied with everything pertaining to the trade ; consequent- 
ly this branch of business has become very prominent. 

One of the best and most prominent firms in Chicago or 
the West is the above firm. Messrs. Bell, Mann & Co. 
have been in business for years ; they are practical drug- 
gists, and manufacture very extensively everything in their 
line, but in the line of barbers' supplies they make a spe- 
cialty, and keep a very selected class of goods and sell at 
reasonable rates. The large demand for this class of goods, 
in this part of the country especially, gives them a great 
advantage in the prices at which they sell their goods. It 
is always an advantage for a large firm that do an exten- 
sive business to undersell others not so extensive. Every- 
thing in the barber line, from a lather-brush to the Roch- 
ester barber chair, can be found in this house. 

FURNITURE FOR BARBER SHOPS. 
This is a branch of business that has been developed 
5 



66 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

very materially. The time was when a straight-back, ill- 
made, poorly-furnished barber chair was good enough to 
sit in and get a shave ; we call it a shave, but our imagina- 
tions are rather vivid in this connection ; however the best 
is not too good at present. 

Mr. Phil. Laudenbach, of Cincinnati, commenced the 
manufacture of barbers' furniture several years ago. Being 
a man of limited means he had to do all his own work, and 
it was an up-hill business with him ; but like all good and 
persevering mechanics he kept on steadily. He com- 
menced to manufacture cup cases for the shops. They 
were made in such a novel manner that they soon attracted 
the attention of the barbers, and they commenced to give 
orders for them. Having built up quite a reputation on 
cup-cases, he turned himself loose on looking-glasses, to 
use the common expression ; he not onl)- made a superior 
article in the latter line, but he sold them so cheap that the 
artists began to take their common ones down and order 
Laudenbach's. In this way he has built up a trade that 
deserves mention. Mr. L. employs several first-class work- 
men and is doing a splendid business. His prices for mir- 
rors that he makes to order are simply astonishing ; had he 
not told me, I would not have believed that mirrors for 
which others would charge ;^30 he sells for $20 and $22, 
and all his furniture in proportion. This is no doubt the 
cause of his success to a considerable extent. Mr. Laud- 
enbach is the only manufacturer of barbers' furniture in the 
West that I found. 

HECKMAN & CO.'S BARBER SOAP. 

Williams' barbers' bar .soap has been one of the many 
luxuries that the barbers have been permitted to use for a 
good many years, and it is indispensable to-day ; but there 
are some other soaps that are making their way in the mar- 



Tonsoiial Art Pamphlet. 6y 

ket fast and giving pretty good satisfaction. While they 
are not as good as the above soap, they are cheaper ins 
price, and there are those who will buy a cheaper soap 
even if it is not quite so good as the best. 

I tested several soaps made by different firms, and as I 
said before, found some that would give pretty good satis- 
faction ; among them that made by the firm above men- 
tioned is one, and my opinion is that it comes as near Wil- 
liams' as any I ever tried. Heckman's soap when well 
dried I consider a number one article ; it is cheaper than 
Williams', for Mr. Heckman acknowledges that the latter 
is the best soap made in the world. Mr. H. sells his soap 
at eighteen to twenty cents per pound. He related a little 
incident that happened in a town where he went to intro- 
duce his soap. Mr. H. can make a good soap, but he is a 
poor hand to introduce it himself. He is a plain man, a 
German by birth, and of a quiet disposition. He went into 
a barber shop in a certain town and asked one of the work- 
men if he wanted to buy any barber soap. The man told 
him no. he didn't want any. Mr. H. remarked that he 
had a very good soap and would like to have him try it. 
The artist said it would be of no use, as they always used 
Heckman's, and would have no other. As the man ut- 
tered these words Mr. H. smiled, and pulling a card from 
his pocket presented it to the astonished artist, and every- 
thing was made satisfactory. Every man to his trade ; a 
card from a traveling man will save a great deal of talk and 
time, and will be decidedly more effective ; but anyhow,. 
Mr. H. came out victorious. 

CONCAVING. 

If there is a class of men in the country who get raked 
over the coals it is the concavers. There are but few of 
these men in the country who can do the work to satisfac- 



68 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet, 

tion ; they either go contrary to the instructions they re- 
ceive, or else carelessly take the temper from the razor. 
One of the best and most reliable firms I found in the West 
in this branch of business was that of \Vm. Autenrieth, of 
Cincinnati, Ohio. It is a firm I had not heard much of, as 
it is advertised very little. Here I found as good work as 
I ever saw in the country. Mr. A. has in his employ men 
who have worked in Sheffield and in the best and most ex- 
tensive establishments in the Eastern cities. Mr. Auten- 
rieth showed me a razor that one of his men made which 
was the best finished I ever saw, without any exception. 
The pair are worth ten dollars. Mr. A. presented one of 
the razors to Dom Pedro of Brazil. When in that city the 
Emperor went through the establishment, and seemed to 
be very much pleased and interested in every department. 
This firm makes a specialty also of surgical instruments, 
and is one of the largest in the country, employing from 
fifty to sixty hands. I examined the concaving and con- 
sidered it as good as can be found. There is one advan- 
tage in this firm — they will make a razor to order just as a 
person wants it, and at very reasonable rates. The num- 
ber is 71 West Sixth street. 



SOME OF THE OLD VETERANS. 

In giving the statistics of the business, I have probably 
failed to speak of some of the most celebrated artists of to- 
day. In giving the history of some of these men, it is 
those whose energy and taste for improvement cannot be 
surpassed ; they deserve all the credit for bringing the busi- 
ness to what it is; but as far as their workmanship is con- 
cerned there are many young artists to-day that surpass 
them in a great measure. 

One of the oldest and best for his time was Andrew 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 6g 



Medeiros. Mr. M. carried on business in Lawrence, Mass. 
At present he is a farmer. He is a Portuguese by birth, 
a native of the Azores. 

Another is Mr. Dudly Chase, of Syracuse, N. Y. Mr. 
C. is one of the highest Masons in the country. He is an 
American and talented. 

Mr. Victor Gay, of Chicago, is a Frenchman. 

Mr. James Healy, of Boston, is an Irishman, a good 
scholar and very well posted in everything pertaining to 
the business. He is in this city at present. He has had 
several good shops in Boston and other cities. 

Mr. William Fisher, of Chicago, seven or eight years 
ago, was considered the best barber in that city. 

Mr. Joseph Ward, of Chicago was considered one of the 
best hair cutters in the West at that time. 

There are many other of these old veterans, but I have 
not their names. 

I do not feel disposed to mention any of the young ar- 
tists of to-day. I never like to praise myself; besides boys 
must be seen, not heard. I'm willing to stand back, boys, 
if you are. 



STATISTICS OF THE BUSINESS IN AMERICA. 

There are 125,000 barbers in this country, and 50,000 
barber shops, which, at an average cost of 1^300 per shop, 
amounts to $1,500,000 invested in the business. There 
are 5,000,000 people who shave, at an average of seventy- 
five cents per month, which amounts to over $46,000,000 
per year ! Not so insignificant a business after all. 



JO Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 



THE LANGUAGE OF THE ARTIST. 

Shave, sir ? Take this chair, 

And I '11 fix you up nice. 
Think I 've seen you before ; 

Know I have once or twice. 

Your hair is pretty long, 

May I not trim it off? 
Has not been cut for a month ; 

It begins to look rough. 

Your head is pretty dirty, 
Will you have a shampoo ? 

It needs it pretty badly. 
And you '11 feel better, too. 

We ha\'e a new ]ireparatioii, 
The nicest ever was made ; 

\Voiild you like to try a bottle ? 
It puts all others in the shade. 

Good day, Sir ; please call again. 
We '11 try to jilease you ever ; 

Not often we get a customer 
So pleasant, kind and clever. 



Tonsonal Art Pamphlet. // 



THE MANIAC'S CONFESSION, AND THE BAR- 
BER'S RETRIBUTION. 

A DRAMA THAT ENDED WITH CUSTER'S BLOODY DEATH. 

The human face is a reflector — or rather a mirror — of the 
past and present of its owner, and some men enjoy the re- 
markable faculty of reading the lights and shades, the joys 
and sorrows, that have crossed one's path by looking atten- 
tively upon the upturned visage. 

When Custer and his three hundred brave followers 
yielded up their lives by inches, a character possessing the 
remarkable faculty above mentioned fell with the others. 
He was a man about forty-three years of age, and had fol- 
lowed barbering almost all his life. When quite young he 
was married to a sweet tempered, timid little creature, 
whose gentleness attracted the eye of a smooth-tongued 
libertine, who laid his hellish plans, and in an evil hour 
blighted the young life of the wife unknown to the idoliz- 
ing husband. She sinned but once ; the cup of her happi- 
ness congealed, and like an icecake of wormwood rested 
on her young soul until her effort at secresy turned her 
brain, and at times she was a raving maniac. 

One night, while watching by her bedside alone, she sud- 
denly became rational, and for the first time the young hus- 
band was made aware of the cause of his wife's madness. 
She began her story, pitiful indeed ; she related the history 
of her guilt — how the vulture had enticed the dove from 
her mate — but before the name of him who had wrecked 
their happiness had been divulged, another fit of madness 
seized her, and when the husband lifted his bowed head 
death was holding her to his cold breast — the light of life 
had gone out. 



72 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

The wronged and unhappy husband was a mute as far 
as his wrongs were concerned. No one knew the cause 
of his wife's insanity save himself. He of course kept his 
own secret, but in the shop his comrades saw that he was 
a heart-broken and a very wretched man. When asked 
why he did not leave the place for awhile, for a different 
clime and scenery, he would answer, " I am waiting, hop- 
ing to meet some one." 

But years rolled away, and the barber, though still bro- 
ken-hearted, lived in the hope of wreaking a terrible re- 
venge on him who had wrecked his happiness and mur- 
dered his child-wife. 

The time came. It was in a Western town. He was 
still barbering for a living. One day a man entered the 
shop and took a seat for a shave. The moment the barber 
looked down into his face something said to him, "This is 
the face of the villian you have waited years to see ; con- 
vince yourself before you wreak vengeance upon him." 
The barber turned deathly pale and stepped back from the 
chair. After a moment's pause he said in a joking manner : 

"A fellow was here this morning who, in conversation, 
spoke of once being in B , and having heard of a bar- 
ber whose wife became a maniac over a little love affair." 

The stranger changed position, and looking the barber 
in the face, who was stropping his razor, said: 

' ' I suppose I am the man she loved, or rather I am the 
man who enticed her away from her husband's love and 
started her feet down the avenue of death." 

No person was in the shop at the time save the wretched 
barber and the doomed customer. 

Calmly the barber continued stropping his razor, which 
gave him time to lay his plans for revenge. After all was 
arranged in his own mind, he stepped to the door, closed 
it, and returned to his chair, and after placing the unsus- 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 7j 

pecting victim in a position to suit his deadly purpose, 
stooped, and as he whispered in the ear of the death- 
doomed man something that paled his cheeks, the barber 
grasped him by the hair with his left hand, while with his 
right he drew the keen razor across his throat, almost sev- 
ering his head from his body, and leaving the dead victim 
in the chair, he left the shop, locking the doors and drop- 
ping the curtains. * * * * ^ * ^ 
Night was settling about the Western village when the 
horrible news of the barber-shop tragedy was discovered — 
two weeks after it had been committed. The barber had 
given out that he had sold his shop to a stranger, and pub- 
lic opinion said it was a case of suicide. But when Custer 
and his forces fell there was a daring recruit fell with them ; 
it was the barber who had patiently waited for time and 
fate to throw vengeance in his way, which they did as re- 
corded above. 



M. CHABASOL, A FRENCH HAIR CUTTER, MIS- 
UNDERSTANDS A CUSTOMER. 

About the year, 1850, M. Chabasol, a French hair cut- 
ter of great renown, was plying his trade in Lawrence, 
Mass. He enjoyed the reputatian of being, not only the 
best hair cutter in the realm, but the most perfect gentle- 
man. 

The incident about to be related took place in July. 
The day, of course, was sultry, and a drowsy sensation 
seemed to come over every person. Even M. Chabasol 
felt sleepy, and a lull in business increased the desire to 
take a nap. He seated himself in the great chair, but just 
as he permitted his head to sink back upon the cushion the 
Rev. Dr. D n entered, breaking into M. Chabasol's 



7^ To7isonal Art Pamphlet. 

trip with Morpheus. The Rev. Dr. D n was in no 

hurry; he wanted an easy shave and "just a little of his 
flowing locks clipped off." He wore his hair almost to his 
shoulders. 

M. Chabasol was very polite to all, but when the rev- 
erend gentleman entered he did the French " to a dot. " 

After seating himself in the easy chair, Rev. Dr. D n 

cautioned Chabasol against the possibility of cutting too 
much off his hair, and tried to explain to the Frenchman 
by measuring on his finger how much he wanted taken off. 
But alas for poor Chabasol, who could not understand 
English any too well, he mistook the Rev. Doctor's ex- 
planation, and by the time he had fairly got to work he 
discovered that the good man was fast asleep. ' 'Je couper 
le cheveiix tres bien, oni Monsieur f 

Alas for poor Chabasol ! Alas for poor Rev. D n. 

The doctor slept and Chabasol wielded the wicked shears. 
Instead of cutting the smallest possible tips off the ends, he 
cut the long locks close to the minister's scalp, saying the 
while, '^Civety jnouch nice.'' 

O horrible mistake ! O wretched and confounded barber ! 
O thunder-stricken minister, who fell asleep thinking of the 
sermon he would deliver on the morrow (for the fatal day 
was Saturday) ! Had Gabriel sent forth his trumpeter to 
awake the sleeping millions — had one of those very trum- 
peters paused at the shop of M. Chabasol and blown a 

blast — the Rev. Dr. D n would not have been more 

astonished than when he awoke and viewed himself in the 
huge mirror before him. Great horribles ! what did it 
mean ? One look at the ruined locks on the floor, one 
look of reproach at the poor Frenchman who just began to 
see his mistake, was all that passed between them, for M. 
Chabasol, grinding his teeth, sank into a seat, and covering 
his face with his hands gave vent to his rage in the follow- 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. J§ 

ing picked words: '^ Sucre ! devils! imps! angels! Vat 
you call him — Frenchman von grand mistake, vat by gar !" 
The good doctor saw how terribly worked up over the 
wretched mistake M. Chasabol was, but curbed his ill-feel- 
ing and passed the matter off as a good joke, which M. 
Chabasol never could see. 



THE BARBER'S APPRENTICE. 

THE TALE OF A TRAVELER. 

I was traveling through the Western States in 1856. It 
was summer and very warm. I arrived in a small village — 
large enough, however, to support a barber shop — ^just at 
noon, and after dinner the landlord, in answer to my ques- 
tion, " Is there a barber shop in your place?" replied, "O 
yes, Hans Augenhousen has a fine shop just around the 
corner." 

After taking a nap in my chair, for I had passed the pre- 
vious night in a stage-coach, I hunted up the coveted es- 
tablishment. When I entered I found that the shop con- 
tained but one chair, in which an old man was reclining, 
while a boy, who proved to be the barber's son and ap- 
prentice, was making rather awkward motions toward a 
leather strap; he evidently was trying to "strop" his razor. 
The customer was sleeping away soundly, with a little less 
than a pint of common soap lather hunting its level down 
the customer's neck. Fritz — for that was the boy's name 
— was very awkward, and in stropping his instrument he 
accidentally cut his finger. The blood flowed freely, and 
the boy was somewhat vexed. He had placed a towel 
about the neck of the sleeper, which by some means had 
become disarranged, in righting which he unintentionally 



y6 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

besmeared the customer with blood. Undaunted, how- 
ever, Fritz continued his labor, but the razor had a wretch- 
ed edge and "pulled," so that the sleeping customer awoke 
with pain. When his eyes opened, and he first caught 
sight of himself in the mirror before him, he saw the blood ; 
his wild imagination ran away with him, and his first 
thought was that the boy had cut his throat. He did not 
pause to make any explanation, but leaping from the chair 
he shot out of the shop door and down the street like mad, 
screaming murder ! murder ! murder ! It was an exciting 
time in the village. He was finally caught, and on exam- 
ination found to be unhurt. Fritz, who was as badly 
frightened as the customer, rushed into the house and 
awaking his father from a sound sleep explained all. 

The old man hunted up the frightened customer and 
brought him back to the shop, and after getting him in the 
chair gave vent to the following soothing language : 

"Vat for you run avay, Mr. Vat-you-call-him, hey?" 

"Don't stop to talk to me about that matter now; I {q&\ 
like I had been murdered, buried and resurrected, and be- 
side my nerves are not very steady. If you have any way 
to get this lather off, that has baked like lime wash on my 
face, please do it, and talk about the episode at some other 
time." 

"Dat ish vat I spoke mit you. I has shust now got mit 
die postoffiice mail man von express package by delegrafes. 
dot contains von dozen of dat soap vot is called Villiams, 
und I soon vix you vashed mit dot soap, und shafe you 
dry mit mine old razor, vich is shust now vrum der ma- 
ker's hant, of der name of Bengal Tigar. Ha, ha, hi, hi \ 
You bet she cuts like der tivel." 

The barber came off conqueror, and hung to his customer 
until the job was completed ; customer going home bless- 
ing the Williams soap and the Bengal razor, as I also did. 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 77 



THE FAULT-FINDING ARTIST. 

Shave, Sir ? Take a seat in the chair, 
I '11 have you all right in a trice. 

You like it ? I 'm flattered, I swear ; 

But zounds! who has outraged this hair — 
No barber ! No, Sir, 'twas the mice. 

No barber would haggle and hack 
The locks of a gentleman thus. 
'Tis plain a pretender or quack 
Has clutched you, that is a fact — 
The fellow who did it 's a cuss. 

You knew it ? Well, yes, I would bet 

That your wife or your mother-in-law 
Has mentioned it oft in a pet, 
As a slur on that " barberous set;" 

But hold ! What is this on your jaw ? 

He cut you! Well, yes, and quite deep; 

The scamp must have been on a spree. 
No doubt he was falling asleep, 
Or else had the jim-jams a heap ; 

That fellow could never shave me. 

How much? Two bits, if you please. 

Just say to your friends where 'twas done- 
That our chairs took the medal for ease — 
That our oils are oils, not grease — 

That we 're having a land-office run. 

The brush ? Ah, yes ! Rip-a-te-rap — slap ; 

Ripa-te-clip, nip-a-te-slip — rop, bop ! 
That boy is a quick-motioned chap. 
When you get him 'roused from his nap; — 

He 's an important tool in a shop. 



yS Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 



THE AUTHOR'S TRIBUTE TO AMERICA. 



If every man, woman and child who dwells in this great 
land of liberty could appreciate the great laws and princi- 
ples that govern a country like this, they might become 
better satisfied with their lot and enjoy more peace, har- 
mon}' and joy than they do. Show me a spot on earth 
where man can proclaim his rights and define his position 
as in America ! .Show me a spot on earth where man can 
bring forth his powers to the full realization of their true 
merits ! Show me a spot on earth where a common peo- 
ple can obtain the knowledge and learning necessary to 
lead them to achievements and prosperity ! And yet 
many of our people clamor to-day and are dissatis- 
fied ; they find fault with the country and its government. 
While m.en become corrupted and fail to enforce the laws 
of the people, and while reckless men run great risks in 
trying to gather all the wealth that they can possibly stow 
away in their coffers, the government — or at least the great 
principles that govern this great nation — is not responsible 
for any catastrophe that may befall the people at any time. 
In view of this, should we not, as a people, try to amelior- 
ate the natural resources and confide more in ourselves and 
in our neighbors ? What a happy people the American 
jieople ought to be, and how proud they should be of the 
garden-spot of the world — that which they dwell in ! 

I feel often to thank the Divine Providence that I am 
permitted to li\'e in such a land as this. I often turn m>'' 
eyes heavenward and thank the Infinite One who rules all 
and knows all best, for all I enjoy, under all circumstances. 
I look at our educational institutions with amazement, and 
at the same time with a tribute of praise for the manner and 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. ygt 

grand system at which they are carried on. I might go back 
in search of those great and wise men of the East ; I might 
watch that guiding-star wliich pointed to the Hght of the 
world ; I might find after my search that my eyes were 
opened a Httle on my way back toward the setting sun ; I 
might stop at great Rome and view its beautiful churches 
and collosal buildings, and there I might stop and rest^ 
with a feeble knowledge of some ancient cities and sacred 
places of the East — but should I stop there ? No ! On- 
ward, an echo sounds, towards the setting sun shalt thou 
roam and find knowledge. 

In calling America the garden-spot of the world, I do it 
with perfect confidence of any indisputable fact. If there 
is anything in this world that I feel to appreciate, it is ed- 
ucation. 

Education, thou art the jewel 1 seek. 
For I always thought and believed that 

It was my lot to be poor; 

Wealth had no charms for me; 
But if knowedge I could obtain, 

What a happy being I 'd be. 

I claim that education is above everything else that is 
under the Supreme power. But I hear the good minister 
exclaim, Do you mean to say that education is above reli- 
gion ? I do, my good man ; had it not been for education 
you would not enjoy the religion that you do to-day. 
Which is the best and the most comforting and soothing 
religion that we enjoy to-day ? That which comes through 
ignorance and superstition, or that which comes through 
knowledge or realization of truth ? 

Would that I could dwell longer on this theme ; for 
America, with her grand and glorious institutions, I have 
chosen as my dwelling-place. America, where freemen 
worship at the shrine of Liberty; where fair Columbia 



So Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

waves her banner bright ; where the oppressed of every 
nation flee to seek protection under laws enacted to pro- 
tect the right ; whose gorgeous mountains with their snow- 
capped peaks bathed in the golden sunset's lingering rays ; 
adown whose grassy slopes bright sparkling waters run 
leaping over golden sands, laughing amidst the silver-laden 
ores, winding through the groves of shady forest trees, and 
bounding over hidden fields of coal and iron. America, 
whose broad expanse spreads out from the Arctic regions 
of the north down to the sunny gardens of the south, and 
from the rough Atlantic's rock-bound shore to great Pacif- 
ic's peaceful coast. America, upon whose broad prairies 
herds of cattle roam and fields of waving grain are grown, 
and orchards teem with ripening fruit. America, whose 
snow-white cotton-fields yield up to busy fingers fleecy 
down which whirling mills weave into wealth ; where fra- 
grant orange-groves hang laden with the golden fruit that 
clusters on each blossoming bough. America, where earth 
yields up to labor's magic touch such full returns ; where 
all could have what all could want, and none should want 
what all should have. 

This is America, broad in her wide e.xpanse, rich in her 
boundless stores, full to the fullest measure of all the lux- 
uries, comforts and delights of life. It seems that Nature 
had exhausted herself to fit this land of sunshine and of 
plenty for all her creatures' happiness. Sure this must be 
the home of justice, and where justice is no wrong can 
ever come. 

Such is my adopted home, where all mankind have equal 
rights before the law. 



TONSORIAL. 



PART SECOND. 

Although we are to speak of two different branches of 
the business at this time, they come under the same head. 
Hair dressing, relative to the dressing of ladies' hair, the 
French more properly call coifure. 

HAIR DRESSING. 

As a matter of convenience, as well as of taste and fash- 
ion, the dressing of the hair has received much attention 
in all civilized nations, ancient and modern. The growth 
of hair on the sides and lower part of the male face, has 
caused some perplexity in management, and as a method 
of obviating the difficulty, shaving has been resorted to, 
although at the sacrifice of what nature gives to distinguish 
the male from the female countenance, and also to protect 
the respiratory organs. 

HUMAN HAIR. 

Woman's hair is the greatest ornament she possesses. 
All writers, ancient and modern, join in praising in the 
highest terms, the advantages that personal comeliness de- 
rives from a handsome head of hair. In all ages women 
have been deeply sensitive of their hair; and even when 
fashion decided that the flowing locks should be cropped, 
it was to be supplied with artificial but more luxurious ones. 

From 1855 to 1865 many of our American ladies saw fit 
6 



82 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

to adopt the short-hair style At that time the young- 
men, of the Eastern States especially, used to have the hair 
curled with the curling-tongs when going to balls and pri- 
vate parties, as stated before, and as it was rather becoming 
it attracted the attention of the young ladies to a no small 
degree, and no doubt it was the very cause of many of the 
American ladies adopting the short-hair style ; and al- 
though the style was very becoming to some, I could not 
consider it an improvement on the long loving tresses that 
so handsomely ornament its cultivating spot. But when 
we go back to the style of dressing the hair in a most hid- 
eous manner, we feel inclined to put the two side by side 
and reflect on them before we venture to offer much criti- 
cism. It was in the management of ladies' hair that the 
art of professional hair dressing was in those times mainly 
exercised. 

In the eighteenth century, through the influence of 
French fashions, the dressing of the hair, male and female, 
was carried to a great pitch of extravagance and folly. 
The hair of a lady of fashion was frizzed up in convulsions 
and curls, decorated with ribbons, jewels and feathers, and 
filled with pomatum and powder to a degree of perfect 
monstrosity. As women of less exalted rank slavishly at- 
tempted to follow these absurdities, the business of dress- 
ing hair was extensively followed. The cost of a full dress- 
ing being, however, too high to be lightly incurred, often 
one dressing was made to last a week or two, during which 
period so much care was taken to preserve the greasy fab- 
ric undisturbed that it became the resort of insects. From 
pressure of business it frequently happened that previous 
to balls ladies' hair had to be dressed one or two days in 
advance, and to keep the head dressed uninjured, the lady 
would sit in her chair perhaps two nights instead of going 
to bed. 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 8j 

Such was ladies' hair dressing centuries ago. The fash- 
ion, however, changed, and the more common-sense style 
was introduced. In Europe to-day ladies' hair dressing is 
carried on more extensively than in America, The style, 
however, is rather modified from what it was three or four 
years ago. The hair was worn at that time puffed up and 
rather high on the head, and the hats worn then were 
small, showing still more the unreasonable manner of such 
dressing. 

From 1866 or thereabouts to 1872, the good common- 
sense style was in vogue. I am glad to state that this 
same style is fast approaching again, when ladies will feel 
somewhat at rest in regard to the arrangement of their toi- 
let. There has been no style in this country, for many 
years at least, that was more sensible and easy to arrange 
than the full-set curls style of the period referred to. The 
hair was combed back from the front, sometimes rolled, 
and a nice set of curls ornamented the back part. There 
is nothing in the way of hair dressing that looks more neat 
and becoming than a nice set of curls. This style is com 
ing again, in my opinion, from the simple fact that for the 
last four or five years the hair has been combed in front ; 
firizzes, called "Invisible" or "Saratoga," have been and 
are still worn to a considerable extent, and ladies began to 
cut the front of the hair, many of them looking as though 
they were ready to take the vehicle to the insane asylum. 
If ever any woman committed a dishonorable act, it was 
the above one — the most nonsensical idea that was ever 
concocted in the human brain. Wearing the hair so long 
in front gives a reasonable chance to believe that the style 
must soon change. When the style of tight dresses ceases 
to exist, naturally the style of wide or loose dresses comes 
in play ; so it is with the hair, when it ceases to be combed 
front it must nesessarily be combed back. 



8^ Tojisorial Art Pamphlet. 

From 1870 to 1873-4, another delightful style made its 
appearance — the "Sea-grass" style. I can not refrain from 
saying a word, not from the French vocabulary, often used, 
neither from the English, for I never knew how, but such 
a ridiculous and absurd style I hope never to have any 
further occasion to speak of. The demand was so great 
for this class of goods, that the sea-weed would not grow 
fast enough, and they began to manufacture them out of 
fine straw. Many ladies did not feel that they were dressed 
up unless they had four or five pounds of straw on their 
heads ; and some would wear them so long that they would 
become filled with insects. Is it any wonder that many of 
our American ladies lose their hair? Not at all. At that 
time it was not the class of goods that they asked for, but 
the weight — the more weight they got for their money the 
better they were satisfied. How silly ? But it is too late ; 
you did wear them, and then you wondered what made 
your hair come off! I do not say that the jute worn 
at that time was the cause in all cases of the hair falling off, 
for there are other causes, but I do say it never made any 
hair grow wherever it was used. 

WHAT MAKES MY HAIR COME OUT? 

This interrogation is made more frequently to the hair 
dresser than most any other relative to this part of the bus- 
iness. If answered, sometimes, correctly, the answer is 
not heeded, and is only to be repeated at some future time. 
There are several causes for the hair falling off. The first 
and most natural cause is, because it is hereditary in some 
families, and nothing under the sun will stop it from falling 
off. Second, because the scalp is diseased, and the roots 
of the hair become dead ; there is no nutrition, conse- 
quently it must decay. Third, because no proper care is 
taken of the hair. The head should be kept clean and 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 85 

healthy ; this failure is very common. There are many 
ladies who do not have their heads shampooed as often as 
they ought to. Now, ladies, suppose I should tell you 
that you must not wash your faces for a whole week, giv- 
ing for excuse that it would be better and healthier for you 
to do so, would you not naturally suppose that I was a fit 
subject for the insane asylum ? And yet there are thou- 
sands of ladies who go six months and some a whole year 
without washing their heads. How contrary we will be to 
mother nature ! How inconsistent we are to her laws ! 

Human hair has its history, and to many who never stu- 
died its singular freaks and peculiar traits, I will give, at 
this time, for the benefit of my readers, the historical facts 
of that insignificant and yet wonderful single hair. We 
may read and we may learn ; we may have a pretty clear 
idea of the natural causes of certain wonderful things in 
this world, and yet the power that encircles us by day and 
night is so wonderful in its magnitude and vastness, that 
when the human mind ponders and reflects on its force, it 
leaves it in a state of astonishment and wonder. The Cre- 
ator has made everything worthy of our investigation. 
Every natural object presents to the thoughtful mind a 
boundless fountain of knowledge, a single hair not ex- 
cepted. 

STRUCTURE OF THE HAIR. 

Nature in its vast scope of mechanism has supplied all 
its objects and subjects with the proper resources and con- 
structive measures. As we look around us we behold na- 
ture in its complete and perfect form. Nature is the great 
book of knowledge, and the more leaves we turn the more 
wonderful knowledge we obtain from its pages ; therefore, 
let us study more this wonderful book, that we may receive 
the great blessing in store for us. 

It is found that all parts of the body except the palms of 



86 Tonsorial Art PanipJdet. 

the hands and soles of the feet are organized for the growth 
of hair. The hair of the scalp and the beard are identical 
in structure with the almost imperceptible growth upon 
other parts of the body, except that while the former 
pierces the cuticle, and the root-sheath or follicle is below 
the skin and subcutaneous fat, or the fat flesh under the 
skin, the latter but slightly penetrates the scarf skin, and is 
therefore of weaker growth. The hair follicle or sheath is 
constructed of three layers derived from the skin : A lin- 
ing of scarf, a middle layer or sensitive skin, and the ex- 
ternal or protective layer the corium or overlapping scales. 
The follicle or the opening of the inner suture is in the 
form of a sack, from which rises the papilla, the most im- 
portant part of the follicle. It is a vascular substance, 
nearly round, and contains a system of nerves. Around 
this are clustered the cells and granules forming the root 
of the hair, which depends upon the life-action of the pa- 
pilla for its future growth. In a state of health new cells 
are continually forming at the surface of the papilla ; these 
push forward those preceding them, which, as they ap- 
proach the surface of the skin, become hardened, forming 
the new hair. 

COLOR OF THE HAIR. 

It is rather difficult to ascertain how many different col- 
ors of human hair there are, but it is supposed that there 
are not less than five hundred different shades. The hair 
grows faster by day than by night, and continues to grow 
after a person dies. Hair contains sulphur and a large 
percentage of nitrogen. The presence of these ingredients 
may account for the unpleasant odor while burning. 

THE LENGTH OF THE HAIR. 

The length the hair may grow normally, especially in 
women, is very considerable. In the hair court of the In- 



Tonsonal Art Pamphlet. 8y 

ternational Exhibition, 1862, there was exhibited a beauti- 
ful jet black hair switch which measured seventy-four inches. 
Cases occasionally occur when there is an abnormal abund- 
ance of hair; it is little more than down. The embalmed 
body of a hairy lady named Julia Pastrana, supposed to be 
a Mexican, was exhibited in London in 1862, and the fol- 
lowing remarks we extract from a memoir on her in the 
Lancet for May of the same year : 

"The ears and all parts of the face except the eyes were 
covered with hair of different lengths. The beard was tol- 
erably thick, the hair composing it being straight, black 
and brittle ; the part of it which grew on the sides of the 
chin hung down like two plaits. The upper portion of the 
back of the neck and the hinder surface of the ear were 
covered with hair. On the shoulders and legs the hair was 
as abundant as is occasionally seen on very powerful men. 
This was one of the most extraordinary cases that ever was 
exhibited." 

WHERE ALL THE IMPORTED HAIR COMES FROM. 

There are several different opinions among the people 
who are not posted, in regard to how the false hair that is 
used in this country is obtained in Europe for the purpose 
of manufacturing it for the use of the women of the country. 
Some think that it is obtained from the deceased women 
and girls who have beautiful heads of hair; others think 
that there are girls having beautiful hair who go to the cities 
and offer it to the hair dresser for a pretty good sum. 
These ideas are not correct. Nearly all the hair that 
comes to this country from Europe is gathered by agents 
who go through the country and crop the hair from the 
heads of the peasant girls. These agents carry with them 
calicoes, ribbons, silks, jewelry and other things attractive 
to the class that they expect to deal with. Hardly any 



88 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

cash is ever paid for raw hair gathered by these agents, 
unless for some extraordinary length that they can not ob- 
tain without an extra inducement. 

PREPARING THE HAIR. 

The best and most celebrated hair preparer in Europe, 
if not in the world, is Monsieur L, Pelleray, of Paris. The 
hair prepared by this house brings higher prices than 
that prepared by any other. It is more even, of finer 
quality and good weight. At the time of the Franco-Prus- 
sian war Mons, Pelleray lost nearly everything he had, but 
several of the leading importers of this country and Eng- 
land stood by the great hair man and set him going as be- 
fore. He employs a great number of the best hair workers 
he can find. The factory is very large and the amount of 
business done in a year is simply astonishing. 

THE LARGEST AND OLDEST HAIR IMPORTERS IN AMERICA 

AND ENGLAND. 

One of the largest hair importers in England, if not in 
the world, is the firm of Havington & Sons, London. 
This house has existed for many years, and does a very 
heavy business. There are many heavy dealers in Paris, 
Brussels and other leading cities in Europe as well as in 
this country. 

THE OLDEST IMPORTER IN AMERICA. 

It was not until 1833 that the importation of human hair 
commenced in this country. The first importer of this class 
of goods was Louis F. Defigenier, of New York City, in the 
year referred to. Mr. D. commenced at No. 3 Exchange 
street, which is at present called Beaver street ; he was 
there many years. In 1865 he moved his establishment to 
596 Broadway, where he has ever since remained, and has 
been the heaviest importer in America. Mr. Defigenier is 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 8g 

no doubt one of the best judges of that class of goods in 
this country. He is very wealthy, and no doubt will soon 
retire from business. He is over seventy years of age, but 
yet active, attending to his business every day. He is a 
well-informed, pleasant, and very amiable gentleman. 

Another very extensive establishment is that of Edward 
E. Tower of Boston. This firm has a branch in New York 
City, and no doubt is the largest firm at present in this 
country. Mr. T. commenced business a good many years 
ago, and being a very energetic man has accumulated con- 
siderable wealth. Though the business is pretty dull at 
present, and has been for at least three years, Mr. Tower 
keeps a large stock of goods on hand in order that he may 
supply the market, especially since so many firms have 
failed within four years. 

Another large firm is that of John Thompson, in New 
York. This firm was embarrassed about two years ago, 
but Mr. T. effected a very satisfactory settlement, and has 
continued in business ever since, being rather successful 
considering the extreme hard times. Mr. Thompson has 
been in business for twelve or fourteen years. 

Outside of Boston, New York and Philadelphia there are 
no large hair importing firms. From these three cities 
nearly the whole country is supplied with the best French, 
German and Italian hair, costing from seventy-five cents to 
one hundred and fifty dollars per ounce. 

Hair is a luxury, and one that can not very easily be dis- 
pensed with in this age of the world ; but while it is a lux- 
ury, and must be worn by ladies of fashion, it should be 
worn in the proper manner, and not be a cause of detri- 
ment to that part or place where it is to be arranged. In 
arranging the hair, it is not the quantity that is needed but 
the quality — use a little more discretion and common-sense. 
If you must roll your hair use the lightest puff there is — 
the hair puff is preferable because lightest. 



po Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

SWITCHES. 

Buying a hair switch is Hke buying a pair of Moses' spec- 
tacles, or any other number one make — you are sure to be 
satisfied ; you may have to pay a httle more, but a good 
switch is worth the money you pay for it. The difference 
in switches is this : When you ask for a long-stem switch 
you get it, no doubt ; you pay a reasonable price for it — 
yes, it is a large and nice switch for the price, but any hair 
dresser who understands his or her business never warrants 
such a switch — it is not made like the short stem — the 
work is not in it. It is woven coarser and generally made 
of coarser hair ; it is not often finished as it should be, con- 
sequently it is sold at a lower price. A short-stem switch 
is made quite differently. In the first place, the hair se- 
lected for this class of switches is of the first-class — fine and 
even ; secondly, the weaving is finer and tighter ; thirdly, 
the finishing is good and durable. The good or number 
one switches are or should be finished with the French 
twisted silk. There are but very few manufacturers of 
switches in this country who finish a switch properly. In 
this specialty I can safely say that Messrs. Medina Broth- 
ers stand unsurpassed in America or Europe. Many make 
the loop too long or too short, and some finish them w^ith 
an inferior silk. 

SELECTING A GOOD SWITCH, 

Not one lady out of a thousand knows how to select a 
good switch. There is a secret in this, and if you '11 keep 
it I will tell it to you — I know the ladies lov^e to keep se- 
crets. Well, here it is : When you take hold of a switch 
and it weighs pretty well, and don't puff out and make a 
big show, put it aside or hold to it until you decide what 
you want. If you examine that switch, you will find that 
there is considerable hair in it, but it is fine hair, therefore 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. gi 

it comes closer together and has the weight in it, as before 
stated ; you will find, too, that the hair in it is more even. 
That is the whole secret of a good switch, and I hope 
many of my readers will profit by it. It always pays to 
buy a good switch — cheap ones never satisfy. This ap- 
plies as well to curls, front pieces, wigs. etc. 

VENTILATING. 

The inventor of ventilating hair was a Frenchman by 
the name of M. Guizot, of Paris. His idea was to imitate 
the scalp in a way that would look most natural. He took 
a piece of small steel wire and made a barb on it resem- 
bling that of a fish-hook ; he then took a piece of fine 
gauze and tacked it on a wig-block, and with his needle, 
as he afterwards called it, tied a complete knot with a sin- 
gle hair, and the work was done. He tried it on different 
kinds of fabrics and the result was the same. 

The first to introduce it in this country was also a French- 
man, who learned the art of Mons. Guizot. Mr. j. Gray, 
of Chicago, was probably the next to take it up, and it 
went like a flash through the Eastern States. At the pres- 
ent time there is an immense quantity of ventilated goods 
sold, and among the late styles is the Marguerita Wave, 
which forms the coifure for front as well as back. These 
waves cost five dollars and upwards. The Invisible or Sar- 
atoga friz is worn considerably yet, but may not last very 
much longer. It is very becoming to many ladies. The 
Paris styles for the coifure show the hair pretty high yet, 
but most of them look tasteful. 

SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL HAIR FIRMS IN AMERICA AND 

EUROPE. 

The hair trade in this country has developed wonder- 
fully, but for two or three years past it has gone back 
somewhat. Like most other kinds of business it has 



g2 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

reached a solid basis. Although not a great deal of hair 
is worn at present, what is worn is of the best quality, or 
the best that can be had ; and my opinion is, that within a 
short period this business will be quite brisk. Many of 
the firms I visited while in the Eastern cities complained 
of business, while others stated that it was coming up 
pretty well. 

One of the most prominent firms I found in the city of 
Boston was that of John Medina, Esq., 426 Washington 
street. Mr. M. has been in business for many years, and 
is master of the situation. He is a very energetic man, 
and through his great anxiety, not only to make money 
but also to keep up the styles and bring the business to a 
higher standard, has lost considerable money for a few 
years past, and also by other enterprises. 

Mr. Medina is a Portuguese, by birth, a native of the 
Island of Gracioza, Azores. He came to this country 
when quite a boy, and learned the barber's trade of Mr. 
Andrew Medeiros, in Lawrence, Mass., and at the same 
time learned the rudiments of the hair business. While 
yet at his apprenticeship, his next brother, Mr. E. J. Me- 
dina, also came to this country, and made his home in 
Lawrence, and learned the trade also. Mr. J. Medina, 
having served his time, went into business for himself, and 
by this time another younger brother arrived from the old 
sod and sought refuge under the wings of the two older 
ones ; his name is Mr. A. Medina. The three were 
toiling away happy and contented, but their minds were 
turned to still another younger brother who they felt 
ought also to cross the deep, blue sea and seek the good 
things that America had in store for him. A letter of en- 
couragement and praise of this blessed land was sent to 
the youngest of the family, and the boy landed safely in 
the land of the free. We refer to Mr. F. J. Medina, for 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. pj 

many years engaged in business in this city. He, like his 
three brothers, took up the razor, and with a tact and taste 
for the business became one of the best workmen of that 
period. They all remained in the barber business until 
about 1863, when Mr. John Medina gave it up and opened 
a hair store. It was not long before the other brothers 
followed suit, and to-day they all find themselves well to 
do, respected and honored by all that know them. As 
business men they have shown themselves to be not want- 
ing in energy and capacity; as moral men they are above 
reproach. There is one feature about these men which is 
rather peculiar if not remarkable ; neither of them drink 
any kind of liquor, smoke or chew tobacco, or use any 
profane language, nor will they allow any person in their 
employ to use the same. I wish I could say the same of 
two-thirds of the business men of the country. It gives 
me pleasure to present such a record as this to my readers. 
We need many more of this kind of men throughout the 
country to-day. Mr. F. J. Medina is well known through- 
out the West, having lived in this city for several years 
previous to 1874. Medina Brothers form no copartner- 
ship whatever; they are all by themselves, and they all 
have a different system of conducting business, but neither 
of them will undertake an enterprise without consulting 
the others. 

I learned my trade of Mr. John Medina, commencing in 
1859, and served three years. I owe many traits of busi- 
ness that I have made use of to Mr. Medina, as well as 
some habits that I was led to desist from, that had I re- 
tained would have led me to the road of ruin and destruc- 
tion. 

Mr. E. J. Medina is established in Lowell, Mass.; Mr. 
A. Medina is in Worcester, Mass., and Mr. Frank Medina 
is in the city of Philadelphia. 



g/f. Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

Another successful hair firm in the East was that of M. 
A. Vieira, of Hartford, Conn., lately deceased. Mr. V. 
commenced business in the above city in 1869 or 70, and 
was very successful. In December last he opened a store 
in New York city, and had just commenced when he was 
taken suddenly very sick and lived but thirty-six hours. 
He died at his brother-in-law's house, Mr. A. Medina, in 
Worcester, Mass. Mr. Vieira was a good business man, 
of rather an amiable disposition, being well liked by all 
who knew him. Mr. A. Medina has bought the store in 
Hartford, and is carrying on the business as before. 

Another firm of prominence in the city of Boston is that 
of A. Gilbert, on Washington street. Mr. G. is a French- 
man, and is a first class wig maker. He showed me a wig 
that he made himself, worth ;^ioo; it is all ventilated and 
weighs one and a quarter ounces. He wears one himself 
that weighs half an ounce. 

There are other splendid establishments in the city, but 
I had not the time to visit them. 

There are some fine hair stores in New York city, but I 
could not obtain much information regarding the proprie- 
tors, as some pretended to be very busy and others would 
not pay any attention to my circular whatever. 

In the city of Philadelphia Mr. F. J. Medina is the lead- 
ing hair dealer. 

There are some fine hair stores in other leading cities 
throughout the country. 

Paris has some fine hair stores, and also a few other large 
cities in Europe. 

The hair trade has been good until within a few years, 
as stated before, when it took a decline. 

IMPORTATION OF HUMAN HAIR. 

Through the kindness of Hon. Edward Young, Chief of 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. pj 

the Statistics Bureau of Washington, D. C, I am able to 
give a correct account of the hair imported to this country 
since 1867, with the amount of duties imposed. Below is 
the statement : 

1867. 

Hair not cleaned $19,619 86 

^^i^y 3.923 97 

Hair cleaned or drawn 102,609 30 

Duty 30,782 70 

Hair manufactured 35.875 20 

Duty 14,340 08 

$207,161 II 
1868. 

Hair not cleaned $26,577 61 

^""^y • 5.315 52 

Hair cleaned or drawn 182,573 00 

^"ty 54.771 90 

Hair manufactured 31,448 00 

Duty 12,579 20 

$313,265 23 
1869. 

Hair not cleaned $59,250 00 

Duty 11,850 00 

Hair cleaned or drawn 389,434 00 

Duty 116,830 20 

Hair manufactured ^I 677 00 

Duty 12,670 80 

$621,712 00 
1870. 

Hair not cleaned $ilg,8o7 00 

Duty 23,361 40 

Hair cleaned or drawn 323,374 31 

Duty 96,112 59 

Hair manufactured 40,582 00 

Duty 16,232 80 

$616,359 90 



p6 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

1871. 

Hair not cleaned $64,634 00 

Duty 26,578 90 

Hair cleaned or drawn 143,582 00 

Duty 28,716 40 

Hair manufactured 353>I05 00 

Duty 105,931 50 

$722,547 80 

In 1872 the importation increased ten per cent., making 
the whole amount ;^82 1,349.00. In 1873 it began to de- 
crease, and the whole amount was ;^753,252. 50. In 1875 
the whole amount was ^638,573.30. In 1876 the whole 
amount was ;^622,587.20 ; making a grand total since 1867 
of ;^5, 326,808.04. 

These figures will give a pretty good idea of what the 
hair business has been in this country for the last ten years, 
this being only the importation, duties and manufacture, 
the sales amounting to nearly double the above sum. 

MODIFICATION OF STYLES IN AMERICA. 

Though the French styles come regularly from Paris, 
they are not carried out here as they are in France. Our 
American women take more to comfort and not so much 
to style, and it is very sensible in them ; but these styles 
are necessary, nevertheless, to keep up the fashions, for 
we might as well be out of existence as out of style. When 
young ladies commence to interest themselves in styles — 
be it of dresses or hair — they think they must commence 
to powder and paint, and change their appearance and not 
look like themselves at all, and mothers will often tolerate 
these nonsensical notions. It leads them to neglect some 
duties they should perform. 

It is not natural for our American women to be lazy, or 
too proud to work, though physically they are not very 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet, gy 

strong, but they possess an active mind and are active in 
motion. Show me an American woman who has a good 
common school education, and she is not afraid of going 
anywhere her duties call her. Her independent manner 
makes an impression on the foreigner, and he is often made 
to wonder at her free and independent ways. The natural 
freedom of the country has considerable to do with it, but 
the manner in which she is brought up and educated has 
more to do with it than anything else. Some of our Amer- 
ican women are beautiful in form as well as feature, but 
there are some who seem to know it a little too well, and 
they become spoiled. 

When a young lady with a sweet and beautiful face com- 
mences to dress to be attractive on the street, she is taking 
a very wrong step, and in many cases she will never re- 
tract it. Attractiveness in its place is proper, right and 
just; but to dress in a manner to be admired only by those 
who will take advantage at a time when they may see fit, 
is very wrong and unbecoming. How many thousands of 
our American women are admired? For what? For 
their intelligent faces ; for their sweet dispositions ; for 
their noble actions ; for their bright intellects ; for their 
brave and true patriotism. Should a woman not be ad- 
mired for these magnificent traits? On the other hand and 
of another class. For a good looking face ; for a good 
looking dress; for a kiss thrown to some one across the 
street ; for some twist of the body when passing another 
party; for some unnecessary laugh on the street; for some 
cunning look to some worthless fop ; for some snapping 
answer to her mother at home ; for the lack of good man- 
ners in company. Young ladies, in moulding your charac- 
ters let them be fashioned in a pure and unspotted manner. 
Your mother who so tenderly pressed you to her bosom 
wishes to see you follow that path where no thorns are to 
7 



^8 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

be found. These thorny paths are very numerous, and if 
in your tender age you should feel that your steps were 
misled, consult one who loves you most, and she, as your 
true guide, will land you in the haven of peace. A moth- 
er's responsibility is beyond measure ; no one knows the 
anxiety of a mother for her child. A true mother, what a 
comfort ! Who will fail to appreciate a mother's love ! 
Nay! let those who appreciate a mother's love show their 
appreciation by obeying her warning and keeping in the 
paths of righteousness. I can say that 

I LOVE THE WOMEN. 

Yes, my mother was a woman, and though I had the 
great misfortune of never having the pleasure to look upon 
her pleasant countenance, I always felt that I would love 
her if she was in the land of the living. I love every 
mother who, with kind words and tender care, brings up 
her children in the right way. I love every woman who, 
when positive of the right, truth and justice, stands up to 
her rights and defines her position. I love every woman 
who never neglects her household duties, and strives to 
make her home happy. I love every woman whose sweet 
disposition and intelligent face glimmer like the rays of the 
morning sun, and never fails to attract to it intelligence, 
pure minds and noble characters. Such women are the 
brightest jewels of this earth, for 

When all things else deceive we fly to woman. 
Just as when life must fail we look to God. 

She is the beautiful of all that 's human, 
Solace in pain, and joy in happier mood; 

The best and truest friend to every true man ; 

The sweetest gift of Heaven, earth's greatest good. 

Take her as girl or maiden, sweetheart, bride, 

Or mother, wife or child — she is our joy and pride. 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. gg 

In pain and sorrow, who so true as thou ? 

And who so quick to soothe our agony, 
In the sad hour of sickness, death and woe, 

When burning tears are dropping from the eye, 
Or chilly sweat is gathering on the brow ! 

Thy tender hand alone can wipe them dry. 
Sweet minister of comfort in distress, 
May God and angels thee forever bless. 

— From '■'■Glances at the World.'''' 

There is one evil that I wish to speak of, which ladies 
should observe and consider more carefully and thought- 
fully, and banish its use as much as they can ; my reference 
is to 

POWDER AND PAINT. 

If all the evils that have cursed the lives, in myriads of 
ways, of countless beautiful women and innumerable chil- 
dren, from the use of paints, powders and pastes, could be 
enumerated, those poisonous articles of the toilet would be 
seldom found in the dressing-rooms of our wives and daugh- 
ters in this day of harmless applications for beautifying the 
complexion. Very few ladies, however, have the slightest 
conception of the evils growing out of the use of the thou- 
sand-and-one paints, powders and pastes offered to the pub- 
lic by unprincipled or ignorant dealers. They are very 
numerous ; often painful, and very often dangerous to the 
complexion, sight, and even life. Deadly poisons used by 
unsuspecting persons in their toilet seldom fail to result in 
evil. Persons have been known to lose their sight by one 
application of a toilet paint; thus, while attempting to ap- 
pear beautiful in the eyes of others, they were themselves 
robbed of the pleasure of looking upon the beautiful. 

Numerous skin eruptions are traceable to the toilet — dis- 
eases that blur and deaden all original traces of beauty, of- 
ten resulting in life-long and loathsome eruptions. It is 
not only wrong, but a useless risk, for ladies to use any- 



loo Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

thing in the way of paint, powder or paste in making their 
toilet that contains these deadly ingredients ; the serpent 
that stings the beauty of many naturally very beautiful 
women often hides in a highly-ornamented bottle contain- 
ing a dainty-colored lotion, or is secreted in a gold-banded 
box containing an odoriferous powder or paste. 

Poudre D' Arts, or rice powder, is a harmless French 
preparation, and can be obtained at all first-class drug- 
stores. This powder is in pretty general use among the 
barbers, and should be the only powder used in a lady's 
toilet. It can be had in colors, and is free from poison. 

LADIES BATHING. 

There are many ladies who like to bathe in cold water ; 
to these especially I would suggest that when they enter 
the bath-room they should sit a few moments, after which 
they should undress slowly. After the clothing is all re- 
moved they should rest from five to ten minutes, and then 
enter the bath. Soft water is much more preferable, and 
should always be used whenever it can be had. In rub- 
bing the skin it is better to rub it crosswise, and if a brush 
is used it should not be too stiff, so as to irritate the skin ; 
for should the skin become irritated, and the blood should 
happen to be out of order, the skin may become festered 
in consequence. After bathing, and the body is dried, an 
application of bay-rum will prevent the cold from taking 
effect on the skin. In applying the solution rub always 
downward. 

I regret somewhat to state that the women of this coun- 
try do not bathe half as much at least as they should. We 
may trace back to many centuries, and will find that bath- 
ing has always been not only one of the best luxuries which 
kings, princes, and the many ancient nobles indulged in, 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. tot 

but also considered the most essential practice for health 
and vigor. Every household should have a bath-room, but 
should it be impossible for many to have them, those who 
do not should by all means go where they can obtain a 
good bath, especially when it can be obtained for so small 
a sum. 

STYLES OF DRESSING. 

When in New York City I went to see and obtain some 
information from Madame Demorest, the great leader of 
fashions in this country. It was in the afternoon, and the 
grand opening day, and when I reached the establishment 
there was no possible chance for me to enter, it being 
crowded by ladies of fashion, some of whom were beauti- 
ful-looking specimens of our American ladies — not only 
beautiful in face but also in form. I made no attempt to 
enter, but went into the corset department and was shown 
some nice corsets of Madame Demorest's own make, which 
deserve a mention. A good corset is indispensable. Mad- 
ame D. manufactures a corset which I can not name, but 
would call it the Common-sense Corset. In buying corsets 
ladies should be particular not only to get the best but also 
the right size — not only the right size around the waist, 
but the right length ; if a long-waisted lady she should get 
a long-waisted corset, and vice versa. Ladies are not care- 
ful enough in this, and what is the consequence ? When 
they go to the dress maker's to get measured for a dress, 
they have sometimes a too long-waisted corset on, and if 
the dress-maker does not take particular notice she will 
take the wrong measure and bring .the breast too high or 
too low ; this happens frequently. A little more caution 
in buying or selecting your corsets will prevent a great deal 
of trouble in the fitting of your dresses. 



I02 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

LONG DRESSES. 

While in New York City I saw but few street-sweepers, 
as I term them, but saw several ladies with tied-backs, and 
really pitied the poor creatures ; they could not walk com- 
fortably, and when they attempted to get on the street-car, 
it was only by the utmost exertion that they succeeded in 
reaching the platform. Comfort is the main pleasure of 
this life, therefore let us be as comfortable as we can, for 
it is only for a few days. 

FITTING UP HAIR STORES. 

There are some elegant establishments of this kind in 
this country and Europe, but they are all fitted up on the 
same principle and sameness. 

I have a novel idea of my own that will do away with a 
great deal of timber in the way of heavy counters and 
shelving on the sides of the room. I propose to do away 
with these and substitute something that will look a hund- 
red per cent, better and be more convenient. I also pro- 
pose to introduce a different and novel way of fitting up 
barber shops, which will be a great improvement over the 
present mode. I can not at this time give these useful 
ideas, but will in a paper that I anticipate publishing soon, 
entitled, "The Tonsorial Art Pamphlet Bulletin," to be 
pubUshed monthly, devoted to the tonsorial art and ad- 
vertisiner. 



Knowledge and energy should go hand in hand ; twelve 
ounces of the former to three of the latter will suffice for 
all purposes. 



The development of mind is the world's progress ; see 
to it and lose no time. 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. loj 



NATURE IN HER BEAUTIFUL ROBES. 

As our days are numbered and we are soon to depart 
from this life, let us reflect once more on mother nature. 
How brilliantly the beautiful sun descends in all its glory 
and magnitude, and reflects on the subjects of this earth ! 
How mellow and sweet is the beautiful moon, descending 
in all her splendor and giving light in the shades of night, 
reflecting on God's footstool and illumining the pathway 
of darkness ! How sparkling the beautiful stars, shooting 
as it were towards this world of ours, resembling the spark- 
ling eye of a father or mother when they feel proud of a 
dutiful son or daughter ! 

How sweet to scent the breezes of the morn, 

And hear the twittering birds and purling brook; 

To tread the meadows when the flowers adorn 
The fruitful grass, or pause in some sweet nook. 

Beneath the low'ring oak or flowery thorn; 
To ponder nature's universal book. 

And watch the conquering sun march o'er the world. 

With blazing banners to the sky unfurled. 

How sweet is music o'er the waters stealing. 

When the hushed winds and sobbing waves are sleeping; 

How rich the blended harmony while pealing 
Its anthems to the sky, that has been weeping 

Away the clouds, until the moon revealing 

Her soft billow seems o'er the surface creeping, 

And the reflected stars and azure sky 

Like a new heaven beneath the crystal lie ! 

Behold the forest waving o'er the plain, 

And piling rocks that build the mountain steep ; 

Behold the peaks that gathering clouds sustain. 
High o'er the valley where the torrents sweep ; 



/o^ Tonsonal Art Pamphlet. 

Behold the billows rolling o'er the main, 

Stirring its waters to their deepest deep ; 
How grand is nature on this little clod, 
While worlds on worlds fly round the seat of God. 

The lambs are playing o'er the verdant mead, 
The flowers in all their loveliness are dres't ; 

The fawns are leaping where their mothers lead, 
And callow birds are chirping in the nest. 

Sweet to all living things are light and shade, 
And sweet is darkness when they seek their rest; 

The day comes forth, away the night must flee — 

The night returns and wins again the lea. 

Hark ! through the vale the moaning night winds sigh. 
Now the autumnal leaves begin to fall ; 

The tinkling bell, the herd's soft lowing cry 
Answer the faithful, anxious call ; 

The mountain rears its rocky crest on high, 
And casts its shadow o'er the darkness vale. 

The forest trees now blend in deep'ning gloom 

And warn the adventurous hunter of her doom. 

It is the hour when twilight steals apace 
Across the distant landscape, while the rays 

Of the retiring sun still find a place 
Upon the tinted sky, and win our gaze, 

Just as the full-orbed moon begins her race, 
And stars come forth with ineffectual blaze. 

It is the hour when dreams steal o'er the soul, 

And the strong brain no more asserts control ! 

The sun is set, night draws her curtains o'er 
The fading landscape, and the dim, deep sky 

Falls low around us; now the busy roar 
Of industry is hushed ; the breezes sigh 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. lo^ 

Among the trees; the robin sings no more, 

And noisy insects in soft slumber lie. 
Repose and silence o'er the senses creep, 
And weary nature soon will sink to sleep ! 

When we go forth, behold how many things 

We see in fields and woods, in air and sky; 
The beasts on foot, the birds upon their wings. 

Insects and all that creep, or walk or fly ; 
Whatever loves, caresses, hates or stings — 

All things which 'neath the sky's wide reach lie. 
And all awake the mind or touch the heart, 
For all are one of which we are a part ! 

All parts of the creation are in motion, 

And yet the universe remains at rest ; 
The countless streams are flowing to the ocean. 

The ocean fills the vapour's snowy breast ; 
And all the planets with a true devotion 

Roll round the sun at Deity's behest. 
Systems on systems guarded by his hand, 
So nearly balanced must forever stand ! 

See the broad river to the ocean sweep ; 

Watch its deep current as it wanders by ; 
Go trace its floods to where the fountains leap. 

Or where in sweet repose the lakelets lie. 
Then gaze upon the clouds with misty drip. 

That brings its moisture from a distant sky. 
And learn as there the waters come and go, 
That blessings from above will forever flow. 

And I have roamed in forests wild and grand, 

Wherein the foliage shut away the skies,' 
Ere yet the monarch 'neath the woodman's hand 

Had fallen prostrate, as the hero dies. 



io6 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

Ah ! men fell the trees and reap the land, 
But God alone can bid the forests rise ; 
And once destroyed by man's advancing power, 
Alas ! we gaze upon the scene no more ! 

The clouds are floating around the mountain's brow — 
Against the rocks like ocean waves they dash — 

Like billows beating 'gainst the vessel's prow, 
Which still sails on all heedless of their lash. 

The tempest roars, the trees are bending low, 
And lightning cuts the sky with piercing flash. 

The heavens are glittering in the fitful glow 

Which leaves the vale all desolate below ! 

For every kiss the mountain gives the sky, 
The sun sends back a thousand thousand-fold 

To valley, plain, lake, ocean, stream and sea. 
Wherein the water sleeps or wave is rolled ; 

Kissing the flower as well as towering tree, 

Blessing each blade of grass that cheers the mould. 

For poor return so Heaven's rich blessings fall 

Like the bright sunlight to the earth on all ! 

How sweet to ramble where the buds are springing, 
Beholding nature in her robes so fair ; 

And where the blossoms are their fragrance flinging 
Abroad upon the bland and balmy air; 

Where birds upon the bending boughs are singing, 
Warbling their little loves, their joy and care ; 

The mountains seem torise and skies to bend 

Until the green and blue together blend ! 

The flowers are liut the Ijlossoms of love. 

Which to the mountain and the vale are given 

To strew with sweets the garden, field and grove ; 
They even cling to rocks, though tempest-riven, 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. loy 



And ope their beauties to the skies above. 

Inspiring man with faith and hope in Heaven. 
Although each one may blossom but a day, 
They will return till earth shall pass away. 

The rose has parted with its sweetest red ; 

All blushless now it hangs upon the stem ; 
The gathering dew upon its drooping head, 

Glistens like jewels in a diadem ; 
And Hesperus her numerous train has led 

Far to the west ; the skies now seem 
Glowing with sapphire ; still the heavens are bright, 
Though day withdraws and leaves the world to night. 

The morn returns, we labor on till night ; 

The evening comes, then gone another day ; 
A week swift as a bird soon takes its flight. 

And quickly then a month has passed away. 
Month follows month — be fortune dull or bright — 

Nor hope, nor fear, nor wish can time delay ; 
A year has soon swept onward o'er the sky, 
And then three-score and ten, and then — we die. 

— From '■^Glances at the Worlds 

I feel to pay a tribute to the above selection from that 
mind which, being endowed with wonderful power, has 
presented to the world such wonderful productions as are 
found in his book published by himself. I refer to " Glances 
at the World," by Judge Horace P. Biddle. No library is 
complete without this beautiful and rare book. 



Never go to see the poor and sick empty-handed ; to re- 
lieve the distressed is one of God's commands. 



Money makes money, but a good character makes a man. 



io8 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

THE CLOCK OF TIME. 

On your mantel-piece there is a clock ; it is an eight-day 
clock, and if it is in good order will run correctly as long 
as you keep it wound up. You very often watch that 
clock. Is it a clock ? Yes, it is a clock ; it ticks, it runs, 
it strikes, it shows the hours of the day. Yes, it is a clock, 
that is a positive fact. Well, if it is a positive fact, there 
is no use to argue the case ; but let us just for a moment 
look at that clock and examine it. Should you not wind 
that clock would it not stop ? Yes, certainly it would. 
Well, then, what is the good of a clock that don't run and 
give the time ? No good at all. Do we expect anything 
from it ? No. 

My young reader, we don't have a clock, but we have a 
feeble reflection of one — it is very feeble indeed. The 
clock of time never stops ; it runs without winding ; it 
brings light and darkness ; yea, we expect good tidings 
from it, and it does bring many blessings that crown us 
often with glory. What a blessed clock ! 

My young reader, this may be a new thought to you ; 
to set you thinking is my aim. What you are is not what 
you might have been. Look ahead of you, and don't stop 
with old fogy ideas in your head, but whatever you do do 
it liberally and firmly. The great clock of time has some- 
thing in store for you, and if you seek it you will undoubt- 
edly find it. Never waste your leisure moments ; make 
good use of every moment, and watch and see if the clock 
of time does not bring you a good record. 



Every ugly face you make is a character of your dispo- 
sition ; ugly faces arc not appreciated. 



Education is the light of the world ; Christ brought it. 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. log 

A RECIPE WORTH A QUARTER. 

For fear that some who may read this little book will not 
feel satisfied with the price they paid for it, like the oblig- 
ing auctioneer I will throw in one more for the same price. 
I did not intend to give any recipes whatever, but wishing 
to please the ladies and keep them in good humor, I got a 
recipe for a lemon pie that, when you eat a piece of it you 
will smack your lips louder than you ever did before in 
your life. 

This recipe requires one lemon, one cup of sugar, two 
eggs, two tablespoonfuls of water, and two ounces of but- 
ter. First take your lemon and grate the rind in a deep 
plate or dish, then cut open the lemon and press out all 
the juice on the grated rind ; be careful to take out all the 
seeds, for if left in they will make the pie bitter. Chop 
the rest of the lemon very fine and add to the above. 
Cream the eggs and sugar together, and add to the rest, 
stirring them well. Line your pie-plate with rich crust, 
pour in the mixture, and then take the butter and cut it 
up in small pieces and put them over the top of the pie ; 
then cover the pie with a top crust. Oh my! "Never 
mind about sending me a piece !" 



SHORT BUT POINTED. 

Beware of a hypocrite, he will drink your life-blood. 

Patience is one of the great virtues — it teaches humble- 
ness. 

If a couple can't get along, they had better make it 
short. 

Religion and science should go hand in hand, but they 
are a foot apart. 

If you can't do any good, don't trouble yourself about 
doing anything else. 



no Tonsorial Art Pmnphlet. 



THE BARBER BOY'S BRIDE. 

The sun was sinking behind the mountain peaks — the 
summer twilight was casting its hallowed, silent creeping 
shadows from the apex of "Mountain King" down to his 
stony footed base, against whose flint-soled sandals a wild 
and merry dashing stream murmured the legendary tales 
of centuries dead. 

A little valley spread out before the eyes of a bright- 
eyed, fair-haired boy, as he came wearily down the moun- 
tain road with a bundle strapped to his back and his hat in 
his hand. 

"This must be a fairy land," he whispered to himself as 
he paused and looked across the beautiful landscape ; " 'tis 
so very calm and quiet here, and all seems wrapped in such 
a holy shadow." 

The boy was weary, and sitting down he leaned his head 
against the cold rock at his side and fell asleep. How long 
he slept he could not tell — not long, however, for it was 
not yet dark — when a slight scream aroused him. Spring- 
ing to his feet, he beheld, hard by, a golden-haired maiden, 
standing with clasped hands looking at him. Her long 
hair, looking like threads of gold, was tossed hither and 
thither by the dancing zephyrs. 

" Heavens ! how frightened I am !" she said to the boy, 
as, smiling, he bowed to her. 

" What has frightened you ?" asked the boy. 

"Coming so suddenly upon you!" said the girl, blush- 
ing. 

"Pray, let your fright take flight, little maiden; it's 
only me, Dan Daniels, the barber boy, who never wronged 
even so much as a little bird." 

"I don't think you would wrong anything," she said; 
" I like the way you talk and look at me." 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. iii 

"So do I like the way you talk and look at me T said 
Dan, "and if you don't care I '11 ask you something." 

"You may ask me anything," said the girl, throwing a 
glance across the valley. 

"Then," began Dan, "I would like to ask if you are a 
real girl or a fairy ?" 

"A what?" demanded the girl, 

"A fairy !" answered Dan. 

"What is a fairy?" asked the girl in astonishment. 

"Why, an angel, or some such innocent being, who has 
the power to do much good and no desire to do a wrong." 

The girl looked down, aside, and then across the little 
valley again, and in an undertone said, "I wonder if I am 
a fairy ? I '11 take him home with me, and tell grandpa 
what strange things he has said to me." Turning to Dan 
she said, "Come, go with me across the vale ; my grandpa, 
crippled, sits and waits for me. Come quick, the shades 
of night are gathering fast about." 

She took him by the hand, nor did the boy refuse, but 
watched — as onward to the cot they walked — the strange 
wild beauty at his side. Soon they arrived, and Rose now 
spoke : 

"Grandpa, I found this boy asleep down at the moun- 
tain's base, where the path runs hard by the silver brook." 

Grandpa looked over his spectacles at Dan, who still 
stood holding the pretty hand of the girl in his own, and 
said : 

"Come here, my darlings, for, Rose, if you found the 
boy he belongs to me, for you are mine, and what is yours 
is mine, you know." Then hitching his crippled leg a lit- 
tle to one side, said : " What have you got in your pack, 
my lad? " 

"My kit of tools," said Dan. 

' ' Kit of tools ! What kind of tools, boy ? " 



IJ2 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

" Barbers' tools, good sir." 

" Barbers' tools! Barbers' tools ! Are you a barber?" 

" I am, sir," said Dan ; and the truth is Dan was a* very 
good barber, though he was a boy. 

' ' Can you shave me, my lad, without cutting my throat ?'^ 

"Oh yes, sir, I can shave you and cut your hair too,'^ 
said Dan. 

" Can you though ? " said the old man very much pleased. 
" Well then on the morrow you shall certainly try it, and 
if you do it well I'll make you joint heir with Rosebud^ 
zounds if I don't." 

And so it finally turned out on the morrow Dan pre- 
pared his razor and shaved old Mr. Aldwell, who was so 
much pleased that he refused to allow Dan to seek his for- 
tune elsewhere, but kept him and Rosebud employed on 
the valley homestead until death said to Grandpa, "I am 
coming for you soon." 

Mr. Aldwell believed it, and one evening just as the 
shades of night were settling around the cottage, he called 
the children in and told them he should soon leave them, 
but he wanted them to be good to each other, and he asked 
Dan to take Rosebud for his little wife and live always in 
the cottage, so that they might visit his grave and sing to 
the willows hard by. 

The next day an attorney was brought from the village 
and Mr. Aldwell made his will, and when it went to pro- 
bate, Dan Daniels, the barber boy, was found to be a joint 
heir with Rosebud Aldwell, his grand children — Dan grand- 
son by marriage. 

Years have rolled away and the barber boy and his 
bride, now old and gray, with plenty around them, are 
descending the steep decline of life, happy in old age 
as when in boy and girlhood, still living in the valley 
cottage erected more than a century ago. 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. iij 



THE MOTHER OF SAMSON. 

Samson was the greatest prodigy of human strength ever 
born, and the name of his mother is not given ; and yet her 
character is set forth clearly in the sacred history. She 
was the wife of Manoah, a great and good man in Israel, 
who is supposed to have occupied a high position in the 
country, and to have had a strong hold upon the feelings 
of the people of Israel. 

This woman is said to have been celebrated for her 
beauty as well as her moral excellence and her devotion to 
the service of God. She was visited by an angel of the 
Lord and informed that she should be the mother of a son 
who should be a Nazarite unto God from his birth, and 
should deliver Israel from the hands and power of the Phil- 
istines. She was alone when the angel of the Lord ap- 
peared unto her, and though a timid woman and alone, she 
was not alarmed in the presence of the strangely glorious 
visitant. The angel gave her his message, viz : that she 
should bear a son. She hurriedly went in search of her 
husband, and told him of the appearance of the angel, and 
his message. He listened to her with astonishment, and 
expressed a desire for the reappearance of the angel. It 
was not long until the angel appeared to her again. She 
ran hastily to where her husband was, and informed him, 
and the two came at once into his presence. The good 
man asked a repetition of the instructions given to the an- 
gel, and it was accordingly repeated in his presence. He 
then desired the angel to remain and partake of a repast 
with them ; but in the stead thereof the angel agreed to 
stay and witness their devotions, while they offered a sacri- 
fice. Here in the history a sublime scene bursts upon their 
view. The angel touched the rock upon which they offered 
their sacrifice, and fire came out of it and consumed it, and 



11^ Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 

the angel entered the flame and ascended up from them. 
Manoah was alarmed, and turning to his wife he said, 
"We shall surely die because we have seen God." Here 
the excellence of Samson's mother appears again. She is 
calm as a summer evening, for she had a sense of the di- 
vine approval, and she said to her husband, " If the Lord 
were pleased to kill us, He would not have received an of- 
fering at our hands ; fire would not have come from the 
rock and consumed our sacrifice, neither would the Lord 
have told us such things as He has revealed." As though 
she had said. How can we fear when God has manifested 
His love in answering our prayers, and giving us the prom- 
ise of a son, with instructions as to his training. She said,. 
"Surely if God had determined not to extend mercy to 
thee. He would not have dealt thus kindly." This was 
excellent reasoning, and no wonder if his fears were at 
once relieved. 

Samson's mother followed faithfully the instructions of 
the angel in her treatment of him in his early life. She 
lived to see him form his first unhappy marriage, for in 
company with her husband she procured the woman for a 
wife for her son. 

What we admire especially in the character of this wo- 
man is her trust in God ; her reliance upon the divine 
promises made to her under such extraordinary circum- 
stances. She seems never to have doubted the truth of 
the revelation made to her. And then she evidenced that 
faith by following out the directions given her as to her 
son. She preserved him from the slightest touch of wine 
or of strong drink, and kept him, so long as she had con- 
trol of him, a Nazarite. She may well be imitated by la- 
dies in that regard. "Trust in God " is needed constantly 
in the relations of life, and in none of them more than in 
the relation of mother. 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. ii^ 



IRRITATION OF THE SKIN, OR THE SO-CALLED 
BARBER'S ITCH. 

If some of our doctors would take a little more pains to 
explain what causes irritation of the skin, they would not 
be so apt to give a wrong idea or present the wrong im- 
pression to those who do not comprehend many things 
that come under their observation. The barber's itch, as 
the doctors call it, is caused by shaving too close, and thus 
irritating the skin. The face of a person who shaves con- 
stantly is very porous, and when it is shaved too close it 
becomes irritated and breaks out in pimples. If the blood 
should be out of order, and the face kept irritated all the 
time, a pretty sore face may terminate. I remember when 
learning my trade of shaving a customer who had a tender 
face, and never would have a close shave. One Saturday 
evening he asked me to shave him close, wishing to have 
a good smooth face next day. I told him that it might 
make his face sore, but he said he would risk it. I did as 
directed, and the consequence was a sore face. He came 
on the following Monday and blowed me sky-high, and 
said that I gave him the barber's itch. I told him if that 
was the case I would cure it for him if he would comply 
with my directions. I told him not to shave his face at 
all and come to me on the following Saturday. He did so, 
and his face was all right ; but had he irritated the skin 
any more he would have had a sore face, and if he had 
gone to a doctor about it he would have called it barber's 
itch. If a doctor gives a prescription to a person, and the 
ingredients in the preparation should be of such character 
as to drive the blood to the surface of the skin and make it 
terribly itchy, would it not be proper to call it doctor's 
itch ? Did not he cause the itching ? It must work both 
ways. Change the term if you please, and don't give any 
wrong impression ; it is absurd. 



ii6 Tonsorial Art PampJilet. 



THE BENEFICIAL INSTITUTIONS OF OUR 
COUNTRY. 

Having already alluded to our educational institutions, 
namely, schools, I wish to say a word in regard to other 
institutions that we as a people can not for a moment dis- 
pense with. One of the most important of these is 

THE PRESS. 

Though some people have a great deal of fault to find 

with many newspapers, and willfully curse the press, some 

of those very individuals, if they could not obtain their 

morning paper regularly, would be the first to murmur. 

The press is your daily guide in your business — praise it, 

and don't curse it. There are men in editorial chairs who 

ought not to be there, but there are black sheep in every 

flock. 

THE TELEGRAPH. 

What a blessing this great invention has been ! What 
power there is in the electric fluid ! It surpasses steam, 
and will eventually take its place. Yes, my readers, fifty 
years hence electricity will be used quite differently from 
what it is to-day ; and the time is coming when mental tel- 
egraphy will take the place of the present system. 

Although telegraphing is quite common at this time, 
there is a class who have not the right idea of its workings. 
I will give you an incident that happened in a Western 
city of an Irish lady who wanted to send a letter by tele- 
graph to her daughter in Ireland. It being a wet morning 
she armed herself with a rather dilapidated umbrella and 
started for the telegraph office. On entering she asked 
for the-man who sent letters by telegraph. The operator 
told her he was the man. She asked how much it would 
cost to send the letter. He said he would have to open 
the letter and see how much there was to send ; and here 



Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. iiy 

the trouble commenced. "And do ye think I 'm goin' to 
open the letther and show my sacrets ? How foine ye 
are !" "But," said the operator, "I have to send the mes- 
sage — I can't send a sealed letter." Here the old lady be- 
gan to give it to the operator in Irish as fast as she could 
speak it. This attracted the attention of another operator 
in the next room, and when he made his appearance the 
old lady's voice was very near to the highest pitch. They 
could not control themselves, and commenced laughing as 
loud as they could. Here the old lady got so enraged that 
she grasped the umbrella and undertook to salute the op- 
erators with it, but being out of her reach she missed them. 
At this they laughed at the top of their voices, which so 
enraged her that she grasped the old umbrella and was go- 
ing to bring it down on the end of the counter, but in the 
attempt she missed it, and the umbrella came down with 
such force that she lost her balance and turned a complete 
somerset. This was entirely too much for the lightning- 
pounders, and they lay right down on the carpet and 
rolled. She was on her feet in a moment, and grabbing 
the umbrella, which had slipped from her hands, attempted 
to jump over the counter, all this time offering some Irish 
prayer as fast as her tongue could move. In the last at- 
tempt to jump the counter her dress caught by some means 
and down she went a^ain, making a terrible racket, and 
jarring everything in the room. When she got up her rage 
was such that she could hardly speak ; she made a few mo- 
tions at the exhausted operators with the umbrella and 
went out of the door muttering something about police. 
The operators got up in a few minutes, holding their sides, 
and not fit for duty for two or three hours afterward. They 
heard no more from Mrs. Malloney. 

Our telegraph system is getting to be very complete, and 
is one of the greatest blessings in this land of ours. 



ii8 Tonsorial Art Pamphlet. 



RELIGION AND SCIENCE. 

The fundamental principle of all that is good, pure and 
just is derived from the Supreme Power that governs the 
universe. To that power we must humble ourselves and 
submit to its direct laws. What is the direct law of the 
Supreme Power ? The ten commandments. It is the best 
and only law that we have now, or that we will ever have. 
Smart men may work and twist ; they may get up theories 
of their own, or nearly exhaust their powers to change that 
law, but it will be fruitless ; it never can nor ever will be 
changed — it is a law of nature or of God, and it will stand 
forever. Science and theology should go hand in hand, 
as stated once before, but they are too far apart, which 
should not be. There is no doubt that Huxley, and Tyn- 
dall, and Spencer, and Haeckel think, or have thought, 
that they have reached the highest pinnacle of science that 
can be attained. On the other hand, there is no doubt 
that Mr. Johnson, Mr. Beecher, Mr. Lair, and other cele- 
brated theologians think, or have at some time thought, 
that they have reached the highest pinnacle of God's teach- 
ings. Poor, insignificant beings ! 

All these men whom I have named I feel like comparing 
with the little school-boy who had just learned the alpha- 
bet, and went home and told his father that he could read. 
His father said to him, "My son, you can't read yet ; you 
only know the letters by which you are to learn to read." 
In calling them poor, insignificant beings, I do not for one 
moment mean to be disrespectful to their honor and knowl- 
edge, God forbid ! But in comparing them with that clock 
of time, previously referred to, that in its great storehouse 
of knowledge full of wonders that the world never dreamed 
of is to bring forth in due time, it does clearly demontrate 



Tonsonal Art Pamphlet. iig 

to me our insignificant power and knowledge to compare 
with the Supreme Power. 

Let us accept all that is good, pure and beneficial to 
mankind ; let us work hand in hand, and promote the hap- 
piness and comfort of those around us ; and let us feel that 
though we are intelligent and possessed of some knowledge 
and human Power, we are merely the agents of the Su- 
preme power that works through us. 



INDEX. 



PART FIRST. 

Origin of the Trade 5 

The Business in America and Europe 13 

The Commercial Traveler and the Railroad Man 15 

"What I Saw and Learned on my Trip 22 

The Principal Men and Establishments in the Country 32 

The Luxury of a Good Shave 40 

Barbers' Unions 53 

How the Work should be Done 54 

The Rochester or Archer Chair 60 

Williams' Barbers' Bar Soap 61 

Manufacture of Goods for the Trade 62 

Some of the Old Veterans 68 

Statistics of the Business in America 69 

The Language of the Artist 70 

The Maniac's Confession 71 

An Artist Misunderstands a Customer 73 

The Barber's Apprentice 75 

The Fault-finding Artist 77 

The Author's Tribute to America 78 

PART SECOND. 

The Origin of Ladies' Hair Dressing 81 

What Makes the Hair Come Out 84 

Structure of the Hair 85 

Color and Length of the Hair 86 

Where all the Imported Hair comes from 87 

The Best Preparer of Hair in the World 88 

The Largest and Oldest Hair Importers in America and England 88 

How to Select a Good Switch 90 

The First Ventilation of Hair in the World 91 

Principal Hair Firms in America 91 

Statistics of Human Hair Imported 94 

Modification of Styles in America 96 

I Love the Women. 98 

Powder and Paint 99 

Ladies' Bathing 100 

Styles of Dressing loi 

Fitting Up Hair Stores 102 

Nature in her Beautiful Robes , 103 

The Clock of Time 108 

A Recipe Worth a Quarter 109 

The Barber Boy's Bride no 

The Mother of Samson 113 

Barber's Itch 115 

Beneficial Institutions of our Country 116 

Religion and Science iiS 



To the Fraternity and Public at Large. 



Having, through a careful examination, found the follow- 
ing firms, advertised in the Tonsorial Art Pamphlet, to 
be reliable, and having a full and complete supply of what- 
ever they advertise, I recommend thetn to all those who may 
hereafter wish anything in their line. 

Hoping that your patronage to tJie said firms may be a 

liberal one, 

I remain, very respectfully , yours, 

M. J. VIEIRA. 



Highest Premium for excellence, awarded at Philadelphia by the 
Centennial Commission, 1876, to 

J. B. WILLIAMS & CO., 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



L>; 



HAVING, §ATH, AND ©OILET ^OAPS, 



GLASTONBURY, CONN. 



1043. 



XO'7'7'. 



rpHIS Company, under the firm name of " Williams & Brothers," of 



JL 



Manchester, Conn., began the manufacture of Shaving Soaps in 



1845, and gave to the world the celebrated '• GENUINE YANKEE 
SOAP," which, for over thirty years, has "held the field against all 
competitors." It is the standard adopted by the U. S. Government 
for use in the Navy. 

About the year 1858, at the request of many barbers, they pre- 
pared a Shaving Soap in 
ONE POUND BARS, called 

WILLIAMS' 

Barliers' Ear Soap, 

which seemea to be just 
what "the craft" re- 
quired. The demand 
has increased annually, until it has taken the lead of all Barbers'" 
Soaps in the United States, Nor is its use confined to shaving. It is 
unequalled as a Toilet Soap, because of its absolute purity, and its 
softening and cleansing qualities ; thousands of families using it in 
preference to the highly-scented, but often impure. Toilet Soaps which 
flood the country. This firm also make a few other styles of Soap 
of equal excellence, viz. : 

PERFUMED BATH SOAP, for Bathing and the Toilet. 

PUMICE and PON CINE SOAPS, for the Hands, &c. 

VERBENA-CREAM, BARBERS'-PAVORITE, CLIPPER, 
POCKET and NAVY, SHAVING SOAPS,— which are kept for 
sale by dealers, in all parts of the U. S. and British Provinces. 




Barber's Chairs x^ Furniture. 






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Send for Illustrated Catalogue. 




We import our Mugs direct from France, and have engaged first-class 
artists to execute the designs of labels, prices ranging from 75 cts. to $3. 
An illustrated sheet of designs and description-list, mailed to any address, 
upon application. 

In order to meet a constantly increasing demand for improved Bar- 
bers' Fixtures, and to place upon the market a better class of goods than 
any other house, we have determined to make this branch of industry not 
only a specialty but an exclusive business. 

Articles of every description, used or required in Shaving or Hair 
Dressing Saloons, will be kept in stock, so that there will be no delay in 
filling orders. A share of your patronage solicited. 

HENRY ARD & BRO. 



BELL MANN & CO., 

DEALERS IN 

BAEBEES' SUPPLIES. 



A Complete Assortment of every article used in Barber Shops 
at lowest possible rates. 



RAZORS OF ALL KINDS CONSTANTLY ON HAND. 

CONCAVING A SPECIALTY. 

Orders Received for the Rochester or Archer Chair. 

BELL MANN & CO., 
No. 163 AVabash Avenue, 

OHIOAQO. 

SMITH BROTHERS, 

CUTLERS, 

{^Practical — over Thirty Years Experience) 

MANUFACTURERS AND DEALERS IN 

Cutlery and Hair Dressers' Sundries, 

349 Washington St., - - BOSTON, MASS. 

Concaved Razors, Turkish Cosmetique, Atomizers, 
Barbers' Shears, MoiistacJie Wax, Fancy Bottles, 

Razor Hones, Essential Oils, Cosmetiques, 

Hand-cut Combs, Horse-Jiide Straps, Lather Mugs, 
Lather Brushes, etc. Bay Rum, Cologne, etc. Soaps, etc. 

Sole Agents for the New England States for the "Centennial," "New- 
York" and "Unique" Barber Chairs; also for D. S. Brown & 
Grandson's Barbers' Bar Soap. 

PRICE LISTS SENT ON APPLICATION. 



HECKMAN & CO.'S 

Barbers' Shaving Soap 

ONE OF THE BEST IN THE COUNTRY. 

Sold at reasonable rates, from i8 to 20 
cts. per lb., according to quantity. 

For information send for circulars. 

HECKMAN & CO., 

Covington, Ky. 



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. PHIL LAUDENBACH, 

MANUFACTURER OF 


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miTiBs III woo WOIK, 


Frames 1 


Mirror and Picture Frames, Braclcets, &e. 


ALL 1 


NO. 365 VINE ST., ABOVE COURT, 


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CINCINNATI, O. 


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2. S^'Store and Office Fixtures designed and made to 


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P order. 

1 Goods securely packed and shipped to any address. 
1 Looking-Glasses, Cup-Cases and other supplies for 
" Barber Shops. 



WM. AUTENRIETH, 

MANUFACTURER OF THE CELEBRATED 

QUEENT CITY RAZOE, 

FULL AND HALF CONCAVE GRINDING, 

No. 71 West Sixth Street, 

CINCINNATI. O. 

Special Patterns of Razors made to Order. 



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State, County and City Rights for sale. Apply at Head- 
quarters. 




JOXZIT MSSDIITii, 

Importer and Manufacturer of 

Switches, Wigs, Toupees, Curls and Frizzes, 

Wholesale and Retail, 
426 WASHIHOTON, COR. SUMMER STRGET, 

BOSTOI^. 

Branch at LAWRENCE, MASS. 



Importer and Manufacturer of 




Wigs, Toupees and Switches, Curls, 

FRIZZES, ETC. 

Lowell, Mass. 



Im|@ite of limai lali, 

And Manufacturer of 

Wigs, Toupees, Switches, Curls, Frizzes, Bandeaux 
and Every Article belonging to the Hair Trade. 

Also makes a specialty of all kinds of 

CORSETS, BUSTLES AND UNDERWEAR. 
292 Main St., Worcester, Mass. 

Branch Store at HARTFORD. CONN. 




T, J. MSIDIITA, 



And Manufacturer of 

IVigs, Toupees, Switches, Curls, Crimps, Puffs, 

Frizzes, Bandeaux, and every Article 

belonging to the Hair Trade, 

29 3SrOI2,TII EIO-HTIT ST. 

PHILADELPHIA. 




ARCHPR'S PATENT 

l^^^'ijustable Barber's Chair No. l^ 

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ARCHSR'S PATENT 

Adjustable Barber's Chaij 
No. 2. 

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ARCHER'S PATENT 
Adjustable Barber's Chair 

No. 2. c=) 

WITW rTr<5FD ARMS. 




ARCHER'S PATENT 
Adjustable Barber's Chair No. 3. 

(Design Patented.) 



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BINDERY INC. 

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